Human beings, we’re reliably told, are up to 60% water, which is nowhere near as high as jellyfish but it’s a start. In this late capitalist moment of both relentless self-optimisation and ever-nicher status symbols, then, it seems surprising that the same old water brands have stayed at the top of the pecking order for so long. Fiji. Evian. Badoit. San Pellegrino. Acqua Panna. Perrier. Voss. Sure, something like a Liquid Death will come along once in a while and shake up the mid-market — but even that brand fell slightly out of favour a couple of years ago when it was revealed that it had quietly switched its springs away from the Austrian Alps to a place called ‘Bland, Idaho’. But in the last year or so a subtle change has come over the high-end hydration market — expensive new entrants, a rash of ‘water sommeliers’ on social media, a scandal involving the purity of Perrier, and a slew of apps that reveal the contaminants in various lifestyle products. There’s something, one might say, in the water. And it’s probably slightly more expensive water. Here are the five to drink.