Travel -- 1 day ago
Words: Aobh O'Brien-Moody
Tinos is a mere 30 minutes by ferry from Mykonos but the Cycladic sisters have little in common. Where Mykonos is brash, loud and the life of the party, Tinos is soulful, introspective, centred. Over 800 chapels are dotted around the wind-sculpted landscape, testament to the island’s status as the spiritual heart of Greece. On a hill overlooking Chora, the capital of Tinos, stands the greatest pilgrimage site in the country, the imposing Evangelistria Church. Pilgrims crawl on their hands and knees along a narrow strip of faded red carpet that lines the road from the port up to the church, their destination a purportedly-miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary that dates from the seventh century.
From Chora, drive 15 minutes along the craggy coastline to reach Odera, the island’s first luxury boutique hotel. Stepping into the spacious, limewashed lobby that overlooks the sparkling Aegean Sea engenders its own sort of spiritual experience. The hotel’s 77 rooms and suites unfurl below, built on levels that are carved into the cliffside – a nod to the striking dry stone wall-terraces that farmers have been building on Tinos’s hills for centuries. Such construction imbues the hotel with a calming sense of flow, each space becoming one with the next and blending into the rugged surroundings.
Studio Bonarchi is responsible for the thoughtfully designed interiors, which reflect the island’s strong spiritual identity. Neatly curved archways abound throughout the hotel, paying homage to the architecture of the renowned Ursulines monastery in the Tinian village of Loutra, which was established in 1862 and has since been transformed into a museum.
Natural hues and sleek lines create a sense of tranquility, while the use of green-veined Tinian marble, local wood and white stone anchor Odera within the context of its surroundings. No detail has been overlooked. Even the ornately decorated peristeriones – or dovecotes – that were introduced to Tinos under Venetian rule and still famously punctuate the island’s hills, are subtly referenced through the engraved geometric details on the stone headboards in all of the guestrooms.
A view of the sea greets guests at every turn. Each of the rooms looks out across the horizon, with the majority extending onto a private terrace complete with a saltwater infinity pool. Follow a pathway down the hill – past curious goats perched precariously on the rocky terrain – and you’ll reach Odera’s exclusive beach, where sun beds and striped parasols line the water’s edge. Linger over a long lunch of fresh salads and sourdough pizzas at Nosti beach bar and restaurant, or order an Odera Spritz straight to your lounger.
Back at the hotel’s main restaurant Eos, head chef Stamatis Marmarinos has curated an elevated Mediterranean menu with a Tinian touch. Start with a selection of breads, dips and charcuterie before moving onto traditional Greek dishes like lobster giouvetsi and lamb gastra. Don’t skip dessert: the flaky baklava with kaimaki ice cream is divine.
When night falls, look skyward. The vast Aegean sky, free of light pollution, offers an unparalleled opportunity for celestial observation. So much so that Odera is launching Tinos by Starlight, an immersive two-night retreat that blends stargazing, storytelling and serene seaside rituals. Under the guidance of renowned astronomy expert Valerie Stimac, guests are encouraged to soak up ancient wisdom and witness the cosmos in all its glory. Starlit dinners beneath the constellations precede stargazing sessions and astrophotography tutorials, while daybreak is marked with sunrise yoga on the beach. It’s a rare opportunity for even the most hardened and cynical city slickers among us to reconnect with nature and feel at one with the universe.
Speaking of spiritual awakenings, no trip to Odera is complete without a zen-like experience at the hotel’s hallowed on-site spa, which includes an indoor swimming pool, Zerobody and Hydrogen room, and traditional hammam. Bespoke treatments use premium products by Dr. Barbara Sturm, Germaine de Capuccini and 10AM apotheke.
Despite only opening a year ago, Odera seems to have settled into itself – and the unspoilt island it calls home. With tourism ramping up all over the Greek islands, here lies a secluded pocket of paradise, unhurried and unconcerned with whatever its counterparts across the Aegean are up to.
Room rates start from €350 (approx. £299).
The ‘Tinos by Starlight’ Astro-retreat experiences start from €220 (approx. £184). For more information and reservations, visit oderatinos.com.
