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For some people, restaurant reservations are a matter of life and death. Just ask Paul Allen, the young banker in American Psycho who receives a taster menu of fireman’s axe and yuppie vengeance when he one-ups Patrick Bateman over a booking at Manhattan’s hottest eatery (“Try getting a reservation at Dorsia now!” screams Bateman over the blood and synth pop.)
We’d suggest that the stakes aren’t quite as high as all that (and anyway, we’ve always preferred a chainsaw and some Billy Joel.) Nevertheless, securing a table at a fully-booked, high profile restaurant is an art unto itself, and a power play that can’t be underestimated.
Needless to say, it helps to have a man on the inside. Fernando Peire, the estimable Director of The Ivy, has long been the restaurant world’s gatekeeper-in-chief. And as its Senior Maitre d’ during the name-dropping and sharp elbows of the nineties, he’s seen every trick in the book. Here’s his insider’s guide to getting in from the cold.
“It won’t surprise you when I tell you that genuine charm and warmth will go further than absolutely anything else.” says Fernando. Even at the busiest times of the week there may be a sliver of a gap to fit you and your companions in. But the maitre d’ will be much more inclined to open that gap up, of course, if you’re pleasant. “Tell them you’d love to eat here tonight, and completely understand if they can’t fit you in, but that you’re happy to have a cocktail at the bar and eat there, if needs be” advises Fernando.
I can’t underestimate the power of being perfectly nice
“I can’t underestimate the power of being perfectly nice.” he says. “Don’t just walk in, put a couple of fingers in the air and say ‘two?’, which does happen more than you’d think.”
“This doesn’t mean overdressing, of course.” Fernando tells me. “It means dressing right for the establishment. Soho House doesn’t want you to turn up in a suit and tie, while The Garrick will raise eyebrows if you turn up with an open collar.” Dressing the part, in Fernando’s book, means wearing something that you feel comfortable and confident in. “That’s when you’ll look your best.”
Nothing in life happens without hard work
“Nothing in life happens without hard work.” says Fernando. “If you want to get a table at peak times at the drop of a hat, you better be a friend of the restaurant.” And the only way to do that is to put in the time beforehand.
“There are a small group of people in London who do this. But they never eat at home – you open up their fridge and all you find is champagne and milk.” Fernando says. “It goes without saying that a regular will attract different treatment to a first time customer.”
“You can eat at any restaurant in the world, really, if you’re happy to turn up at an off-peak time.” says Fernando. “But peak hours have changed dramatically in ten, twenty years.”
Whereas before the peak time may have been eight till ten, Fernando tells me it’s now closer to six till eight. “It’s a move to how things were in New York” he says. “People want to dine straight after work. They can’t leave central London and come back into the West End later on – there’s a congestion charge, there’s no parking anymore, and it takes twice as long as it did ten years ago.”
“We’re also getting up an hour earlier than we did in 1995.” he says. “That’s why there are so many breakfast meetings nowadays. Nine PM would have been the peak time twenty years ago. Turn up at nine now and you’ve got a good chance of getting a table.”
“If I was staying in Milan or New York, perhaps this is what I’d do.” says Fernando. “Unfortunately, old school concierges like this are a bit of a dying breed. But there are still a few around the world who have very good relationships with the front of house staff at the city’s best restaurants.”
“To me this is a very bad idea.” Fernando warns. “You’re playing a very, very dangerous game.”
“If anyone rings up and says they’re a friend of mine, I just tell my staff to exercise their usual discretion and not to necessarily give them preferential treatment” he tells me.
Being a member of the ‘celebrity club’ does not tend to impress most maitre d’s
“I’ve met thousands and thousands of people. Anyone could find out my name and mention it when they walk in.” he says. “But I see that as a gentle form of bullying. I’m not a fan.” Dropping the name of a famous friend, meanwhile, will probably be equally fruitless. “Being a member of the ‘celebrity club’ does not tend to impress most maitre d’s.”
“This is a complete myth.” says Fernando. “I know of no restaurants who keep an empty table on the off chance a major celebrity walks in.” Much more likely is that the front of house will be clever with table timings, should they need to squeeze a high profile – and, more often than not, regular – customer in. “A good maitre d’ simply wouldn’t need to keep a table empty”
“I’m not a fan of that.” says Fernando. “It’s very crass.” There are ways, of course, of showing the front of house that you appreciate their effort. “This is a service industry after all” says Fernando. “If you had a lovely meal and the maitre d’ made your evening particularly enjoyable, I see no real problem with slipping him a personal tip – alongside the usual service contribution – on the way out.” If this makes you more memorable a customer next time you show up, he says, all the better. “But it should always be genuine – a genuine relationship, that’s what will make you a valued customer.”
Etiquette ―9 months ago
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