Why autumn might just be the best time to visit Monaco
Forget the summer crowds. As the Riviera settles into its autumn rhythm, Monaco reveals a quieter, more authentic side of itself. And it's this way of life that inspired Monte Carlo Beer.
- Words by: Gentleman's Journal
There are few places in the world quite like Monaco in the summer. The superyachts, the beach clubs, the seemingly endless lunches that turn into dinners. It's a place that has perfected the art of enjoying itself, and for a few glorious months each year, the world descends upon it to do exactly that.
But ask anyone who actually lives in Monaco, and they might tell you a rather different story. Because while summer undoubtedly has its charms, there's a strong argument that autumn is when the Principality really comes into its own.
The French have a wonderful expression for this time of year: La Rentrée. Quite literally, it marks the return to everyday life after the long summer holidays. Schools reopen, businesses return to their usual rhythm and the crowds begin to disappear. But on the Riviera, the transition is rather more appealing than it sounds.
The Mediterranean remains inviting, the terraces are still full and the weather is often remarkably pleasant. The difference is that Monaco begins to feel like somewhere people actually live, rather than simply visit.
It's a side of the Principality that William Scheffer and Anthony Orengo, the lifelong friends and founders of Monte Carlo Beer, know particularly well.
“September is when you really start to see the Monaco that we grew up with,” explains Scheffer. “The summer crowds ease off, everyone gets back to work, but the weather and the energy are still there. It's a little quieter, a little more relaxed and, in many ways, that's when the Riviera feels most authentic to us.”


Earlier this summer, we introduced our readers to Monte Carlo Beer, a premium delicately balanced lager with the ambition of bringing a little of Monaco's distinctive lifestyle to Britain. Rather than leaning into the familiar clichés of supercars, casinos and extraordinary wealth, the founders wanted to bring to life something altogether more realistic, born in Monaco: a unique personality and Monique wit, and laid-back approach to enjoying life.
It's a philosophy we experienced firsthand in July, when Monte Carlo Beer joined us for our annual Long Summer Lunch at Blenheim Palace. Against the magnificent backdrop of the palace's Italian Gardens, the brand was served to guests as they gathered for an afternoon of good food, conversation and celebration. With both founders in attendance, it was a fitting setting for a beer inspired by the art of bringing people together.
And it's an appealing philosophy. After all, the Riviera's greatest luxury has arguably never been its yachts or five-star hotels, but its ability to make even the simplest occasions feel rather special. A long lunch with friends, an afternoon overlooking the water or an impromptu drink on a terrace.
“For us, the Riviera has never been about one particular season,” says Orengo. “It's about a way of life and taking your time, being with friends, enjoying good food and drink, and making the most of where you are. That's what we wanted Monte Carlo Beer to represent, the Monaco we know, rather than the Monaco people might expect.”


Of course, you don't necessarily need to be in the South of France to appreciate that sentiment. London has its own version of La Rentrée. After the relative quiet of August, the capital returns to life in November. Restaurants fill up, friends return from their travels and the city's social calendar gets going again. And while the weather might not quite rival the Côte d'Azur, there are still plenty of opportunities to make the most of a sunny autumn afternoon.
Monte Carlo Beer has been steadily establishing itself in some of the capital's most enjoyable spots. There's Pyro in London Bridge, The Garden Bistro Bar on the Embankment, The Waterway in Little Venice and Tower House in Richmond. Four very different settings, but each offering an opportunity to embrace a little of that Riviera spirit without boarding a plane.
It's an idea that feels particularly appropriate as we head towards the colder months. Because while the British tendency might be to pack away the summer at the first sign of autumn, perhaps there's something to be learned from our friends on the Mediterranean.
Good company, good conversation and a cold beer, after all, aren't particularly dependent on the season. And if Monaco has taught us anything, it's that the best moments are often the ones that don't require much planning at all.
Find your next premium pour here.
Follow Monte Carlo Beer - @montecarlobeer.uk
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