Style -- 2 days ago
Words: Gentleman's Journal
IWC’s Portugieser collection has a long and distinguished history, though its popularity seriously burgeoned from the 1990s onwards, earning a reputation as one of IWC’s finest and most representative lines in its diverse stable. IWC watches have been widely praised for their graceful, classic designs, the Portugieser in particular for its uncluttered dial, thin bezel and sword-like hands. In 2013, the Portugieser collection earned a major upgrade that enhanced this appeal even more: the addition of an in-house movement, the IWC 89361.
Whilst we recently saw a new line of Portugieser watches unveiled at SIHH, the Portugieser Chronograph Classic of 2013 still stands out for us, so we thought we’d re-visit it.
The Portugieser Chronograph Classic (ref.390402) updates and evolves many aspects of the traditional formula. The case and pushers are more imposing, complementing the prominent lugs and thicker bezel, and are further enhanced by the arched edge of the sapphire crystal. There’s also the fantastic calibre 89361 movement, which improves on the previous calibre with its smooth functionality, quick-set date complication, combined hours and minutes counter, and sixty-eight–hour power reserve. The effect is to create something a little more sporty, a little less formal, but still full of the wonderfully clean elegance that we know and love.
With a strap hand-made by IWC-owned Italian leather company Santori, this watch feels great on the wrist and is exceptionally easy to read. The chronograph, with its flyback functionality, stops and starts very smoothly. Its self-winding rotor is completely unnoticeable during daily wear, and is finished with the same lovely Geneva striping as the rest of the movement, which you can admire through the sapphire caseback. Finally, the dial itself is a picture of gorgeously restrained classicism, a timeless design augmented by a railway-style chapter ring around the circumference. IWC has positioned this watch in the same price category as the likes of the Rolex Daytona, and it’s not hard to see why.
The IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic costs £9,950 in steel and £18,250 in gold. For more information and to purchase, click here.
