Travel – Totally Transporting

I have always been fascinated by The Orient Express through the pages of Agatha Christie, and I was delighted to be given the opportunity to review one of its signature dinner voyages on a chilly Saturday in late January. For some people the idea of spending money to eat on a train that goes round in circle doesn’t do anything at all, but if you like wine and good food then this has to be on your bucket list.

Upon arrival the standard of the service, food and wine was set high and certainly remained that way. Although I didn’t feel particularly ‘Agatha Christie’, probably due to lack of a foreign chubby detective twirling his mustache, I did feel a strong sense of the golden by-gone eras. It could have been in Gatsby or even the kind of evening you can imagine Mr and Mrs Darling attended in Peter Pan – one that would have made them so unbelievably neglectful of their children. I think I would probably let my children be captured by pirates and throw themselves out of a window for another night on this train.

After a wonderful prelude in the lounge, with a harpist, flowing Laurent-Perrier NV Brut and delicious canapés, we were ready to make our tracks (excuse the pun). One thing worth mentioning now is that when they say ‘black-tie’ – they mean it! Floor length dresses and furs were the vogue for the women and the men were in their finest crisply ironed shirts and black-tie jackets. On my advice, try not to be the crass member of the party who wears 1920s themed clothes, I am sure they’ve seen it before and they will see it again.

Whilst we had been waiting the train had pulled up outside. Although not the original passenger train itself, it is made up of several original carriages dating back as far as 1925, and the Ibis carriage of which we were guests was the oldest. We were helped to our table which was in a beautiful separate section with its own sliding doors for privacy. There were four incredibly comfortable armchairs and a table boasting an array of different wine glasses and cutlery all of which were elegantly embossed with the letters VSOE (Venice-Simplon Orient-Express). The wood panel walls were decorated with incredibly detailed marquetry of a dancing girl and they had managed to keep the original safety signs which were painted in beautiful white calligraphy instead of something garish and modern in red sticky back plastic. The serving team greeted us individually at the table, and explained the route for the evening.

Despite it being The Orient Express, we went west around Surrey, and although initially we wondered whether it would be a shame traveling in winter in the dark we quickly revised our opinion. Unfortunately, but rather obviously, the train runs on the National Rail network and so seeing the backs of strangers’ houses and Staines train station would have taken some of the magic out of the experience. Traveling at this time of year was perfect and as we set off out of London looking down the Thames at …. bridge. It was certainly the ideal five minutes of ‘window time’ the journey deserved, because once over the Thames the food, wine and general ambience was too enchanting to bother looking outside.

We were to have the tasting menu which consisted of 6 courses and as many wines. We started with a cappucino of haricots blanc with morels and white truffle oil. It was creamy, not too rich and deliciously sweet with tender morels. An instant hit. Secondly came the lobster with red pepper, cardamon dressing and Avruga caviar. The lobster meat was firm and moist and the dash of caviar on top did not overpower it as I had feared.The wine we were served with this dish was a fresh light and delicious rose – a 2009 Château d’Esclans Whispering Angel from Côtes de Provence. I’m not much of a rose drinker but I will certainly be buying a lot of this in the summer, light and refreshing and not at all syrupy. Then came a ‘mosaic’ (chunky terrine) of game. The flavours were much heavier than the previous two courses and so a slightly acidic 2006 German Riesling cut through it perfectly and balanced the dish well. This was followed by a halibut served in a bold and absolutely spot-on red wine and port jus. This was my partners favourite dish despite being somewhat of a fish-o-phobe. It flaked tenderly without loosing any meaty robustness and has inspired me to hunt down a fish sauce recipe with port in – a huge hit! After a little pause we were presented with our final savoury dish – a baked fillet of organic beef with an onion Boulangère, puy lentils and red cabbage. The fillet was cooked to perfection and the lentils were subtly spiced and delicate enough to not feel too glutinous at the end of such a feast. This was the only course in which we had red; a rich and fruity pinot noir from California – what an excellent choice and what a good one it was. Despite both being red wine drinkers we didn’t feel like we missed out having had predominantly white wines as they had been chosen with obvious care and attention and worked perfectly. For desert we were served A Gateaux St. Honore accompanied by a 2006 Again, although neither of us would choose a pudding over cheese, the efforts to ensure a well rounded and complementary menu somehow tricked us into not minding at all.

After a strong black coffee served in lovely embossed china (to take the edge of 7 glasses of wine and 2 champagnes) we were told we were pulling back into Victoria. As we left the train we were given some beautiful chocolate truffles to take away with us and the very stylish silver plated napkin holders which were engraved. We had also been given an embossed camel coloured leather wallet in which to keep our tickets.

I have honestly never felt so sad to be leaving a restaurant, let alone one on wheels where everything is cooked and served at a high speed. The magic of the evening was totally transporting in every sense of the word. It was a night of total make-believe, class and the finest tastes.

And if you do get chance to go on The Orient Express, then like Mr and Mrs Darling of Peter Pan – dress up to the nines, put the dog in charge and stay out all night. ,

By Anna Spooner

Travel on the British Pullman or Northern Belle in May, June or July and receive £100 off per couple. To receive this exclusive offer please quote code P100 in the online booking form at orient-express.com