The Truscott Arms restaurant review

There is an ever-growing list of buzzwords that have been overused to the point of no meaning: tailored, artisan, handmade, gourmet, fusion, gastropub. We will be focusing on the latter. Since its inception the term gastropub has been used as an umbrella term for any pub that serves more than a soft-yolk scotch egg. As the label’s purpose faded into obscurity, it began to acquire negative connotations. It is for this very reason though that The Truscott Arms completely surprised us. With the dreaded term finding its way into discussions about the venue, we arrived thinking we had it all figured out: awkward ‘up-cycled’ furniture, a quirky twist on fish & chips and bottled ale named after a cult movie. How wrong we were.

Step through the veil of a Victorian pub and enter the first floor’s ornate dining room. No white emulsion or reclaimed fittings here, the Truscott achieves character whilst retaining an air of refinement. Seasonal adornments of autumnal vegetables and flowers surround featured works from The Truscott’s own charity art foundation. It’s a promising concept empowered by the latest addition to the establishment’s staff; Head Chef Aidan McGee. Formerly of Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, The Mandarin Oriental and Tim Allen’s Launceston Place, Aidan is a polite, warm character who shows no pretence, just humble ambition. On his multiple visits to our table he talks of his visions for the venue and taking his high-end pedigree into an approachable and affordable setting. He has no doubt succeeded so far.

Concentrating on good food at a more than sensible price, the Truscott can still be the backdrop for your mid-week catch ups but they haven’t settled for just that. With movie nights, tasting events and Christmas in his sights, Aidan wants to make it a trusty local favourite and a destination worth travelling for. If the current menu is anything to go by, we’re sure he’ll have no trouble. The scallop with pork shoulder was a worthy homage to the time-honoured marriage of crustacean and swine, and a tip to Aidan’s Irish decent. However, the standout plate was the wood pigeon served with blackberries & hazelnuts; a wholeheartedly autumnal treat.

Anyone looking for the regular comforts of sticky toffee puds and chocolate fondants will be lost here. The thyme ice cream and black pepper crumble that feature on the desert menu show that Aidan won’t sit back and take the easy options, and for that we are grateful.

There were still some creases to iron out. There was little in the way of wine suggestions and we were left to guess the cheese board selection in front us of, although it was delicious. Yet even with these hiccups considered we could easily see ourselves coming back. It would be an insult to refer to The Truscott Arms as a gastropub. Instead we propose “inspired-all-week-dinner-destination-that-has-craft-ales-and-also-wine-pub”. It doesn’t quite have the same ring but it’s a work in progress.