THE PERFECT COMBINATION OF FOOD & FASHION: Salotto and Roda

Salotto and Roda, to get this down early, is excellent. Really excellent. In fact, easily the hardest thing about writing the rest of this review was not simply repeating variations on that over and over again. It’s much easier to write and, crucially, far more entertaining to read a scathing hate-filled review that slowly vivisects and methodically annihilates everything that a restaurant stands for. Tragically, this isn’t one of those reviews. Because Salotto and Roda is excellent. I think I mentioned that.

Tucked down the cobbled Lovat Lane, this restaurant-come-men’s-boutique offers a novel and frankly unexpected dining experience – good food and well cut clothes – surprisingly comfortable bedfellows. The notion of heading to a concept restaurant in the heart of the City didn’t initially inspire visions of relaxation, but Salotto and Roda manages to be both warm and genuinely fun, without compromising on its quality of food or service.

Aperitifs emerged swiftly, with the waiters striking that delicate balance of being welcoming and attentive, without feeling the need to constantly hover. Delicately spiced steak tartare and supremely good calamari and zucchini did not disappoint, perfectly light batter making the latter a must try.

Going against the strong Italian bent of the extensive, and not unreasonably priced, wine list, I went for an excellent Malbec Tomero to accompany my steak. Unadventurous ordering by me, but it was beautifully rare, and offered with a barrage of sides. As it’s such a staple, steak is always a good basic test of a restaurant, and Salotto passed with flying colours. My companion, rather more adventurously, went for scallops served with wild mushroom, an earthy woodland riff on more classic treatments of the dish, which arrived liberally dressed with black truffle and was, predictably by this stage, phenomenally good.

Up a short flight of stairs from the restaurant sits Roda, a clothing boutique where classic Italian pieces rub shoulders with somewhat more flamboyant swimwear. Echoing its downstairs counterpart, quality is uncompromising. Swatches of cloth are cultivated in damp rooms for a gestation period to improve texture before being cut into a lovingly tendered array of garments that any sartorialist would approve of.

My only real ‘criticism’ (if it can be called that) of the place is that on the particular Thursday evening I was there, it was a very long way from being full. The quality and atmosphere were such that it didn’t matter at all, but I genuinely don’t understand why the place doesn’t have waiting lists a mile long – Did I mention that it was excellent?