The new rules of spring tailoring

Whether you're heading to the office or the altar, these style tips will have you looking fresh this season...

If you’ve recently found yourself staring at your suit collection, wondering what to wear to your next event, or your cousin’s wedding – or even just to the office that day – we understand your hesitation.

We’re in a new age of menswear, especially when it comes to suiting up. The trend of casual tailoring is going strong into spring/summer 2019, meanwhile double-breasted is back  – we’re smartening up and dressing it down at the same time.

After championing streetwear for the best part of a decade, men’s fashion weeks for SS19 saw the likes of Balenciaga, Raf Simons and Maison Margiela throwing off their hoodies and sending  suits down the catwalks.

Meanwhile, labels like Dior, Paul Smith and Ermenegildo Zegna added streetwear twists to their suiting: relaxed, oversized, brightly coloured – and often with nothing beneath the jacket.

And if you’re wondering whether or not this more relaxed attitude to tailoring has found its way into our streets and offices yet, you need only look to Goldman Sachs’ new dress code. Will others follow suit?

The new rules of spring tailoring

A bit of a minefield, right? To keep you looking good and knowing your way around your own wardrobe, we called on sartorial experts Clements & Church for a little guidance.

The British tailors, who specialise in combining excellent, bespoke tailoring with exquisite fabrics, have been creating ready-to-wear, made-to-measure and bespoke attire for over a decade.

They honour the traditions of tailoring without shying away from being bold and exciting. Perfect, then, for giving us the new rules on suiting up for spring…

Think in textures

The new rules of spring tailoring

This season, go deeper – focus on fabrics as opposed to prints. Clements & Church, for instance, are using textured, heavier materials like bouclé to give their pieces more characterful and interesting finishes.

“Linen bouclé is the perfect fabric for the season,” says director Aaron John. “It’s an incredibly open weave which allows air in and out of the garment, regulating heat. It’s unique and sophisticated yet extremely practical for both spring and summer seasons.”

Stick to unstructured

The new rules of spring tailoring

With “business casual” becoming as much a part of the streets as the boardroom, it comes as no surprise that the unstructured tailoring trend is here to stay.

Clements & Church are following suit, embracing a softer shoulder in their suits and jackets for a more relaxed look.

Keep your cool

The new rules of spring tailoring

A lightweight and versatile spring coat is an essential item, so opt for an open-weave fabric and a deconstructed design to give yourself some much-needed breathing room.

We like the look of Clements & Church’s Loro Piana Storm System® Double Breasted Mac (above). It’s smart enough to wear over tailoring, while the combination of the classic navy with the bold summer lining means it wouldn’t look out of place over jeans either.

“Invest in a custom-made Storm System® raincoat and you’ll be able to create versatile, season-defying looks for years to come,” Head Tailor Matt Roden told us. This treatment makes fine fabrics completely waterproof and wind-resistant without affecting the softness, warmth and comfort of the natural fibre.

Feeling inspired? Then why not treat yourself to a new piece of bespoke tailoring, with a visit from one of Clements & Church’s Travelling Tailors.

They’ll send an expert to either your home or place of work at whatever time and day is convenient. They’ll consult, measure and advise you on the the best fit and style, and they’ll even bring a selection of tailoring for you to try on.

Well, if you’re going to get a new suit, you might as well do it in style…

The new rules of spring tailoring

Clements & Church

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Looking for more style advice for SS19? Here are the 5 versatile essentials to add to your wardrobe…

Further Reading