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Tamdhu 21 year old: Time well spent
The oldest whisky in Tamdhu's core collection is matured solely in the finest Oloroso sherry oak casks for a result that's self-assured
When it comes to whisky, patience is its own reward. Yes, there are enough decent 10 and 12-year olds to sip on, but nothing matches the deep flavour profiles and warming finishes that only come from those whiskies aged for 18 years or more.
And it’s this time and more that is perhaps Tamdhu’s greatest asset. Time is hewn into every single level of its creation, development, maturation and finally, its long-awaited release for discerning whisky enthusiasts the world over.
This 21-year old un-chill filtered whisky is one that embodies the school of thought that talent is nothing without dedication — and this particular Tamdhu is dedication incarnate.
The end product is, no doubt, truly remarkable, but the whisky’s backstory begins with the mighty oaks used to make the casks which have been growing in the USA and Spain for 70 years. These are then felled and laid to dry for two years – a “seasoning” process that enhances the flavour transfer during maturation. These oaks infuse the whisky with a characterful sweetness, which is the first thing that strikes you upon a first taste of the 21 year old.
Before we get to that part, however, casks constructed of this oak are crafted in the family cooperages and bodegas of Jerez. Then, as these casks travel from Spain to the Tamdhu distillery in Speyside, the whisky is prepared for a process that shows that the journey is every bit as important, and enjoyable, as the destination. And that’s where the Tamdhu commitment to tradition and craft truly excels as the whisky is allowed to mature for slightly more than 183,960 hours (yes, that’s more than 20 years, we checked) in those Olorosso sherry casks – one of the most revered types of cask available.
It’s not just the production of the whisky that’s notable, but also the history and ethos of Tamdhu itself. Founded by a group of united entrepreneurs in 1897 on the banks of the River Spey in north-east Scotland, their vision was a simple one: to create the finest whisky in the world. With a location by the Spey sorted, and input from one of the leading distillery architects and engineers Charles C. Doig, the distillery began to use those sherry casks which would serve it so well for the next 100 years. Despite a brief cessation of distilling for two years in 2010, Tamdhu was bought under the umbrella of Ian Macleod Distillers. It continued the brand’s entrepreneurial spirit and commitment to sourcing the finest sherry casks for its whisky.
After 21 years then, what does this taste like? Well, even before you’ve opened it, the first thing you’ll notice is that deep amber colour so typical of those expressions that go beyond the 12-year maturation period to ensure the sherry in the casks becomes fully infused with the liquid. Then there’s the detailed box and elegant bottle design, which nod to the Spanish and Moorish design motifs and style that contributed so much to its unique flavour.
Finally, the taste – those oak trees certainly bring the sweetness of chocolate, sultanas and warm cinnamon porridge to the fore. On the palate, you’ll be served with a gradual unfolding of deep Christmas cake and raisin flavours, surrounded by candied orange and hints of that sweet oak once more. For the finish, you’ll be struck by warm spices and more syrupy waves of fruit before finally encountering those rich and enduring sherry notes once again.
The whole effect is a self-assured and mature whisky that telegraphs urbanity and flavoursome brio, which proves that every hour of every day that’s elapsed for the last two decades has been time that’s been exceptionally well spent.
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