Loro Piana just went back to its roots

In its centenary year Loro Piana went big on fabrics and legacy

Loro Piana turns 100 years old this year. And in Milan, during the city's fashion week, it unveiled its menswear and womenswear collections, which were a reflection of why the Italian business has maintained its solid standing in the fickle fashion industry for a century.

The collection, which was unveiled at Via Tommaso Grossi 10, pays homage to the Triverno maison's savoir-faire and traditions. It is a collection that traverses fibres, fabrics, shapes, and silhouettes, in turn shouting (in a very quiet luxury sort of way) about unique know-how, technical expertise, and ultimate quality. The know-how of founder Pietro Loro Piana's sons Sergio and Pier Luigi Loro Piana, who helmed the house from the 1970s through to the early Noughties, and took the brand from a high-end weaver into a luxury house (that was then bought by LVMH in 2013).

The Autumn/Winter 2024 collection embodies the Loro Piana man, who prefers comfort and ease, over frills and extravagance. Ultra luxe, super soft wool coats are honey in hue, and paired with equally tactile trousers and ivory cashmere socks. Field jackets, bombers and multi pocket vests are paired up with delicate knits and wool fur shirt-jackets, designed with the male Piana weekender in mind. Denim double-ups comprising cotton slacks and jackets are low-key and slim-fitting. Even the tailoring is relaxed. Eveningwear comprises single and double-breasted tuxedos and plush shearling coats, which are dressed down with silk roll necks and Piana's signature stand-up collar Spagna shirts do away with the need for bowties.

In terms of fabrication, rough cheviot, cashmere, baby cashmere snd vicuña run through the collection, woven into the cloths of Loro Piana's clothing. Rare Pecora Nera, exclusively sourced in New Zealand, sits alongside Sopra Visso wool, sourced in the Sibillini Mountains of Italy. Both have been brought back for this celebratory collection.

Rather nicely, and indeed notably, cardo-shaped pins closing collars are an homage to the thistle used historically by the brand as a tool to raise the fibres and create a textured frisson finish, the same thistle which is used in the Loro Piana coat of arms. This is turning 100 looks like, the Loro Piana way.

Want more fashion content? Read up on the The biggest menswear moments from Milan Fashion Week and Pitti Uomo

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