Grooming -- 12 hours ago
London Collections Men Review SS16
Words: Charlie Thomas
Now in its seventh iteration, London Collections Men, or LCM, is one of the most talked about fashion events in the world. Taking place bi-annually, it attracts the most acclaimed designers as well as big-name stars (Lewis Hamilton is now an ambassador), not to mention numerous press from around the globe. Dictating the trends for seasons ahead, it’s a must for those with even a passing interest in style, and this time around it promised, once again, to be the biggest and baddest affair yet. It delivered.
Here are our highlights from the four-day affair.
HARDY AMIES
“Few Savile Row houses push the boundaries as far as Hardy Amies. Last time out in January the brand were inspired by exploration of the great outdoors, and it seems they’ve taken this notion a step further for SS16. Looking to outer space, creative director Mehmet Ali has utilised a mix of highly technical fabrics including a couple of laser-cut outerwear pieces that were as daring as they were futuristic. On the more wearable side were clean, classic suits including a minimalist grey two-piece as well as a bold check, double-breasted iteration – one of Ali’s signatures”.
– Charlie Thomas, Features Editor
MR. HARE
“Mr. Hare are known for their intricately crafted shoes, but for SS16 founder Marc Hare unveiled his first ever ready-to-wear clothing collection. With use of bold colour and looser cuts, he offered a well-crafted, tailored approach to weekend wear that’s topped off by a rather natty selection of two-tone loafers that would make Fred Astaire proud”.
– CT
mrhare.com
AQUASCUTUM
“Stepping into the white-washed walls of Aquascutum’s presentation space we were presented with a subtle summer display of flowers surrounding suited mannequins. Displaying a new direction for the traditional brand were waterproof technical-fabric, which were shown over sharp tailoring, as well as an exciting collaboration with Cutler & Gross adding a new angle to eyewear”.
– Holly Macnaghten, Fashion Editor
PRIVATE WHITE V.C.
“Private White V.C seemingly never fail to impress. Their SS16 collection was displayed in their achingly cool Duke Street store and everything just felt right. Interchangeability is a theme consistent with the brand and each garment paired so well with the next that you could practically get dressed in the dark there. Whilst the colour palette was arguably their boldest yet – the sharp orange jacket (pictured above) is a highlight – a number of wardrobe staples made up the majority of the collection, including a beautiful navy double-breasted blazer, the perfect beige summer suit, and a couple of Grenson-made, Private White-designed, perforated shoes”.
– CT
RICHARD JAMES
“The rebel of Savile Row did it again, taking all those lucky enough to be there from the well-heeled streets of London to the jungle. Fresh greens and bright patterns adorned everything from formal shirts to bomber jackets and shoes. In a colour palette that ranged from greens and blues to pinks and reds off-set by whites and pastels for shorts and trousers, stand-out pieces included a stunning teal suede trench coat and a cropped jacket of the same material”.
– HM
DUCHAMP
“With a regal sense of classic Britishness, Duchamp’s SS16 collection was one of our favourites of LCM. Unlike clothes from many of the other designers, all of the looks here are perfectly wearable, featuring multiple tones of blue, subtle check patterns and a mix of soft and sharply tailored blazers. The accessories were on point too, with silk evening scarfs and linen pocket squares featuring prominently alongside a mix of striped neck ties and velvet bow ties”.
– CT
BELSTAFF
“It was to the desert on day 3 of LCM as Belstaff’s signature leatherwear took on a military tone with sandy hues and crisp white textured tops and jeans. With interjections of grey and white camo pieces worn with khaki shorts and brown leather accessories, the outside space was transformed into a thoroughly cool desert camp, complete with canvas tent and military vehicles”.
– HM
TURNBULL & ASSER
“It was a thoroughly eccentric affair at Turnbull & Asser during LCM, with mannequins dressed in a myriad of different colours and patterns, featuring Aztec, African and Japanese prints and jacquards. Keeping with the brand’s origins, classic regimental and club colours were mixed with new indigo and light khaki shades, alongside warmer colours for a suitably seasonal palette”.
– HM
DUNHILL
“Ever since he joined dunhill in 2012, creative director John Ray has injected an urgency and sense of life into the British heritage brand. One of the more classic labels to showcase at LCM, dunhill’s SS16 collection harks back to the brand’s roots yet keeps one eye permanently forward. The cut of the trousers were looser than most, but with a sharp taper on the suits and a rolled hem on the more casual looks, they were anything but staid. A country-inspired colour palette was utilised well with muddy browns, forrest greens and versatile neutrals featuring prominently and smart leather weekend bags completed many of the looks with aplomb”.
– CT
GIEVES & HAWKES
“Savile Row is synonymous with classic menswear, and Gieves & Hawkes are very much at the heart of it, based out of the finest address the road can lay claim to: No. 1 Savile Row. Whilst they boast three Royal Warrants Gieves are one of the more contemporary tailoring houses, in terms of their ready-to-wear lines, that is. This was increased further in their SS16 collection. Featuring tailored shorts, knitted t-shirts and even more of their expertly crafted leather trainers, the collection was comprised of burnt reds, tobaccos and a deep green. And there wasn’t a tie in sight…”
– CT
THOM SWEENEY
“Mayfair favourites Thom Sweeney really impressed with their latest collections, unveiled at their Bruton Place store. An expert use of fabric was on display including soft linen, raw silk, seersucker and wafer-thin cotton. Casual tailoring was the name of the game here, with unstructured jackets featuring soft shoulders (no padding) and button-down jersey shirts. They’ve also answered the problem of our rainy British summers with two unlined, unstructured coats, one single and one double-breasted. Needless to say, we want both”.
– CT
