In Budapest, Matild Palace promises you a stately stay

Budapest does sunsets differently. Forget the washed-out, drab dusks we’re accustomed to in Britain — because the Hungarian capital puts on a dazzling floorshow every single night; whole spectrums of vivid, vibrant colours splashed across the sky, and one hell of a honey-drizzled golden hour as an opening act.

But what good are such sunsets without an equally impressive vantage point? Thankfully, the ‘City of Bridges’ also delivers in that department. For, sitting atop the majestic Matild Palace, you’ll find a cocktail bar with the finest views in town. A hidden gem with a secret liquor library, the suitably regal ‘The Duchess’ is perhaps the best bar in the city, and the hotel below it is equally exclusive, entrancing — and overflowing with five-star spirit.

Originally built during the ‘Belle Epoque’ era in 1902, the palace is one of a pair (its twin sits on the other side of the road, and is in the process of being developed into a hotel itself). But Matild Palace beat it to the punch, imbuing new luxurious life into a building once owned by Her Imperial and Royal Highness Maria Klotild of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha. It’s a highly-detailed title; but then this is a highly-detailed hotel.

Matild Palace heroes up and zeroes in on its rich history. Ornate original features remain amidst the tasteful modern touches, and a vast photo wall can be found in the lobby, charting the story of the building; how it was developed to be a social hub for Budapest over a century ago, and has since been named a UNSECO world heritage site, and developed into the 111 room-strong hotel it is today.

Throughout the property, these small historical thrills are a treat to discover. But the hotel’s heritage is perhaps most neatly intertwined with its modern trappings in the ‘Grand Passage’ — a wide corridor on the ground floor where, in years past, horse-drawn carriages would actually trundle through the building, giving esteemed guests easy access to the meeting rooms, cafes and offices of the palace.

But smaller, more subtle nods to the past have also been preserved. The metalwork throughout the hotel — from the grand central staircase to the cages of the lifts — is detailed with motifs and depictions of the natural world, a request of Maria Klotild to ‘bring the outside in’. And these exquisite elevators hold but more history; they were the first in any Budapest building, and the hotel today even houses ‘hidden’ elevators for guests who wish to ascend to that ravishing rooftop bar, The Duchess.

And the guests have it good. In addition to those 111 rooms, there are also 19 suites ready to be booked — and all are elegantly appointed with spa-style bathrooms, inspired by the famous thermal baths of the capital and finished with idiosyncratic, colourful ‘Zsolnay’ tiles. The parquet floors and headboards take a similarly authentic approach; and are crafted using traditional, artisanal Hungarian techniques.

The thermal thread also runs deeper than your own individual bathroom — with the on-site ‘Swan Spa’ taking a classic Budapest experience and elevating it to five-star luxury. Nestled on the lowest floor of the hotel, the spa is an oasis of modernity-meets-tradition, with a sauna, steam room and even a pink salt room available to those looking to unwind in the privacy of the hotel.

The same could be said for Spago, the hotel’s on-site restaurant. Because, as with the many spas dotted around Budapest, while you could venture to the city limits to find a traditional fine dining experience, Wolfgang Puck’s Michelin Guide restaurant serves up some of the freshest and most adventurous dishes in the capital.

Blending classic Hungarian cuisine with Puck’s sophisticated Californian mainstays, it’s a menu unlike any other in Budapest, with dishes including ‘Asparagus Vichyssoise Soup’, ‘Hungarian Buffalo Steak Tartare’ and ‘Braised Beef Cheek ‘Vadas Style’ with Pickled Mushrooms’ on offer to guests of the hotel and casual diners alike.

There’s also a grand coffee house in the hotel; the ‘Matild Café and Cabaret’. If anything, this dramatic reimagining of the palace’s historic café — which first opened in 1901 — is more impressive than Spago; better blending the traditions of the city with the desires of modern travellers and locals. With multiple seating levels and a central stage, cabaret shows will begin in October, and promise to be well worth a visit.

It is this attention to historic detail that makes a stay at Matild Palace such an enchanting experience. Despite the thoroughly modern feel, you’ll never lose the antique atmosphere of the place; the deference of design and charming ‘Belle Epoque’ details that keep the history of the hotel alive.

And nowhere is this more evident than up on the rooftop, at The Duchess. Among the handcrafted cocktails, you’ll find creations swirled together with ingredients including local Benedek Pinot Noir and Pálinka, a fruit spirit first distilled in Hungary. Pair any one of these delectable drinks with those sumptuous sunsets, and this’ll be the stateliest hotel stay of your year.

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