Style -- 2 days ago
How to dress for Royal Ascot
Given the prestige of the Royal Ascot, the code of dress is particularly strict, but it all depends on where you're going to be
Words: Zak Maoui
Kicking off a summertime full of events is Royal Ascot, the most prestigious of all affairs on the racing calendar. Dating back to 1711, where it was founded by Queen Anne, it takes place over five days at the prestigious Ascot Racecourse, situated around six miles from Windsor Castle.
Given its close proximity to Royalty, the annual event has become synonymous with them. The late Queen Elizabeth II herself would attend every year and other members of the Royal Family are regular attendees.
And naturally, as a result of the prestige of Royal Ascot, the dress codes are particularly strict, but this all depends on where you're going to end up on the day...
The Royal Enclosure
The strictest of dress codes must be adhered to in the Royal Enclosure, and the rules are lengthy. According to Ascot’s official website, ’it’s a requirement for male guests to wear either black or grey morning dress which must include a waistcoat and tie, a black or grey top had and black shoes’.
"The Royal Enclosure demands the very pinnacle of elegance — quite rightly so," explains Campbell Carey – Head Cutter and Creative Director at Huntsman. "It's less about extravagance, more about correctness, tradition, and refinement. A gentleman must wear full morning dress, and when it comes to executing it successfully, the devil is in the details, as you'll want to be sure that your suit is fit to pass the sartorial scrutiny of your fellow attendees. Morning wear is formal day wear, reserved for some of the most formal occasions. Second only to White Tie, the beauty of morning wear is in the strict protocol of each component, and to successfully execute morning wear is an art.
"This means either a black featherweave morning coat with cashmere stripe trousers (Note, cashmere dictates the stripe, not the cloth), a linen waistcoat - preferably in dove grey, pale blue or buff, though a tasteful colour is permissible- or a grey morning suit in three pieces. Always opt for a classic, tightly knotted necktie; you can’t go wrong with a silk, slub-silk or grenadine tie, and if you’re looking to punctuate your ensemble, consider a micro-dot or tasteful, subtle motif. Of course, a black silk or grey felted top hat must be worn, you’ll be half-finished without one. Your shoes should be highly-polished black Oxfords. This ensemble isn’t merely about formality — it speaks to heritage, to continuity. It's a celebration of craftsmanship and the English sartorial canon, which we at Huntsman hold dear."
With regards to hats, we turned to esteemed St James’ hat-makers, Lock & Co, for advice, and it seems it can often be a tricky decision for those attending Royal Ascot. The finest topper sold at Lock is the silk. They are antique, heirloom pieces that Lock and Co lovingly restores and refurbishes in the workroom of No. 6. The removal of hats is a tricky business. Generally it should be removed in any interior including restaurants, private boxes, but it can also be taken off on a terrace and balcony or in a garden.
"It used to be traditional to wear striped or plain shirts with a white collar, stiff and detached or attached for Ascot, but even 20 years ago this was beginning to disappear," explains Emma Willis, founder of her eponymous label. "Wondering about this I looked to my customer His Grace The Duke of Devonshire, the then Queen’s Representative and Chairman of Ascot Racecourse, so no one better. His Grace wore one my plain ivory shirts, obviously with double cuffs, so it was confirmed that unless you loved them, a white collar was no longer vital attire. Today a plain ivory, white, palest pink or blue shirt with double/ French cuffs is perfect for all Enclosures, including with Morning Coat in The Royal Enclosure."
The Queen Anne Enclosure
The Queen Anne Enclosure enforces a less strict dress code than the Royal Enclosure, but it is still required that men wear a full-length two or three-piece suit. Jackets and trousers should be of matching material and colour (morning dress is also permitted, but not enforced), while a collared shirt and neck tie are necessary.
The Queen Anne Enclosure is where you can reuse your office suit - as long as it's in good nick. If you've got a space here, it's worth noting that full length socks are a requirement.
The Village Enclosure
In the Village Enclosure, a suit jacket or blazer (can be of different material to the trousers) and a full-length pair of trousers or chinos are required. With its positioning centre stage at the racecourse, albeit not the most exclusive of enclosures, it's still required that you look the part. A collared shirt is essential, and you'll have to wear neck gear of some sort - although you can be a little playful with this and the Villa Enclosure dress code marshals allow a necktie, bow tie or cravat (meanwhile, patterns of a patriotic nature, for example a national flag, are acceptable)
Again, socks must be worn and should cover the ankle.
The Windsor Enclosure
Whilst there is no official dress code for the Windsor Enclosure, which is the easiest Enclosure to get tickets for and is favoured by Ascot-goers for the ability to take your own picnic, guests are encouraged to dress in smart daywear. A jacket and collared shirt is encouraged, but not essential.
Now read up on the 25 wardrobe essentials every man must own
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