A guide to summer tailoring with Luca Rubinacci
The Italian designer and connoisseur of good taste gives us his top tips for staying stylish this summer…
Pizza, gelato, architecture. There are some things that the Italians just seem to understand better than everyone else. And – when it comes to mastering sartorial style in the hottest season of the year — you can add tailoring to that list too.
Luca Rubinacci, the Italian style guru you’re probably already following on Instagram, represents the third generation of Neapolitan tailors at the helm of the Rubinacci fashion empire. In his capacity as both a designer and creative director, Luca has established himself as the go-to gentleman for tips that are sure to keep you three strides ahead in the style stakes.
As the sun makes its welcome return to the capital, we asked this connoisseur of good taste to give us his top recommendations for ensuring that the heatwave doesn’t play havoc with your sartorial standards.
When you want to look the part…
Navigating tailoring in summer is undeniably a minefield, but Luca’s advice for staying smart in the heat is simple: “All that matters is that you can stay comfortable,” he says. “There is a fashion at the moment for very tight trousers, but they can be incredibly uncomfortable in hot weather!”
To combat this problem, he recommends opting for loose-fitting, light materials like linen — which will help to get more air on your skin. Happily, there are a wide selection of designers out there, producing linen pieces which ensure that you don’t have to sacrifice looking smart in order to keep cool. And, when it comes to finding a perfect fit, you can rely on Rubinacci himself to button you up in the right blazer.
When you’re keeping things casual…
If you’re looking to keep it cool and casual, then Luca insists your hero item is a simple piqué shirt. “A piqué shirt is designed using an open weave and resembles the structure of an Oxford shirt,” he explains. “This will allow you to achieve a relaxed, sporty look when you want to be more casual.”
“A piqué shirt is the perfect alternative to the classic shirt you’d wear under a suit,” says Luca. “So if you’re looking to keep cool without compromising on style, this is my top recommendation!”
When you want to put your best foot forward…
According to Luca, the first thing to consider when you’re planning your footwear for summer is actually which type of socks you want to wear. “In summer, you have the option to wear ‘invisible socks’, which can help complete an outfit,” he explains. “These are perfect for wearing under loafers or boat shoes in summer, which can elevate your look even if you’re dressing down in jeans.”
However, he warns against opting for a pair of invisible socks if you’re wearing a classic suit. “If it’s a hot day but the occasion calls for a suit, my advice is to wear socks that are made using a very light wool called Scottish Fleece. For a summery touch, pair your suit with a white rubber-soled boat shoe.”
When you want to add a splash of colour…
In Luca’s opinion, summer is fashion’s most exciting season — since it allows you to play with colours and materials. “I love to wear bright colours, and I always tell people that the best place to start is with a pair of white trousers,” he says. “Although that might not seem very exciting, white is a colour which looks fantastic paired with a coloured shirt and blazer — don’t be afraid to try red or bright blue.”
Another easy way to give your attire a breath of fresh air is to invest in some colourful pocket squares. “Most of our pocket square sales take place in the summer,” explains Luca, “because our pocket squares are a great, easy way to give your outfit a brush of colour.”
Looking for more expert style guides? These are the best summer tailoring brands, according to Mathias le Fèvre…
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