Five steps to dressing for the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot

It’s that time of the year again, when you don your finest morning dress, put on your top hat and head to the Royal Enclosure at Royal Ascot, the pinnacle of speed, style and high society.

Founded in 1711 by Queen Anne, Ascot Racecourse has retained Royal Patronage ever since, and the members-only Royal Enclosure is one of the most prestigious destinations in the world, rightly worthy of its epitaph ‘Like Nowhere Else’.

Beau Brummell, the nineteenth-century style icon and captain of industry, first dictated a dress code of morning dress for the Royal Enclosure, when he stated that ‘men of style should always be simply but elegantly dressed’. And, while fashions have come and gone during the past two centuries, the foundations of the dress code remain the same.

With the biggest selection of silk top hats and the largest collection morning dress in the world, Oliver Brown, located at 75 Lower Sloane Street in Chelsea, is a one-stop-shop for everything you need to dress for the Royal Enclosure, as well as a fountain of knowledge on the traditions and requirements.

Here are the five steps you need to follow to ensure your outfit for the Royal Enclosure is just right.

While the first point might seem obvious, there’s a reason why Oliver Brown’s busiest week of the year is the week before Royal Ascot… Men generally leave organising their outfit until the very last minute! Oliver brown morning dress can be pre-booked online and is available to buy or rent, and the earlier you start to plan your ensemble, the more time you will have to try different options and ensure you look perfectly polished and well put together with consideration of the finer details.

“We don’t take bookings (unless its VIPS) so clients can just walk in and our staff will be happy to help. The week before Royal Ascot is our busiest week, but ideally people should come to see us in March, so it’s not such a rush,” says Kristian.

Put it in your diary for next year, now…

Kristian Robson, Founder and Director of Oliver Brown

These days, there are now few occasions where one really needs to dress up. Cheltenham races has eased up its dress code, and even London’s most prestigious private member’s clubs are relaxing their rules when it comes to clothing, but there is no such loosening of the dress code in Royal Ascot’s Royal Enclosure, so it is important to be aware of the following all-important traditions and requirements:

• Morning dress, comprising morning coat, waistcoat and formal trousers, is a requirement for men
• A black or grey top hat must be worn
• A simple shirt and tie combination is best – a white or blue shirt and a houndstooth tie is a classic combination
• Either a single- or double-breasted waistcoat works well (remember to leave the bottom button undone on a single-breasted waistcoat)
• Your tailcoat should come to the back of your knees and show about 1/2» of shirt sleeve.
• Either lace-up oxfords or loafers are appropriate shoes, and they must be black, highly polished, but not patent leather
• Socks may be colourful but they must cover the ankle

Kristian elaborates on not only what to wear (and what not wear), but also how to wear it, and how not to wear it…

“The dress code for the Royal Enclosure is a black, grey or navy morning coat, a tie (not a cravat), a collared shirt (not a wing collar shirt), and stripe morning trousers in black, grey or check.

Waistcoats of any colour can be worn, but novelty patterns and fabrics (including slogans, phrases, promotional messaging, brand logos or cartoon imagery) are not permitted. Patterns of a patriotic nature, for example a national flag, are acceptable. Waistcoats should be below the waistband, not above so you can see the shirt. And always wear black shoes.

We say don’t use sunglasses with top hats, even though it’s not a rule… But top hats shouldn’t be worn like a cowboy hats tilted on the back of the head – they should be flat on your head. Wear it about 1″ above your ears, with no jaunty angles please!”

You have been warned…

Chances are, you won’t be wearing morning dress very often, so hiring a morning suit can be an economical option. But whether you opt to hire or buy a suit from Oliver Brown, the quality is the same, and its morning suits are the best you can get in the hire world by a long way.

You will be able to choose from a black or grey single-breasted morning coat with peak lapels and ‘cutaway’ tails. The tails of the coat should fall to the back of the knee, and the coat should button across the natural waistline. The top of the collar and shirt cuff should show the same amount, about 1/2”.

If you go for a grey morning coat, the trousers and waistcoat should be made of the same, matching cloth, whereas grey ‘cashmere stripe’ and houndstooth trousers can be worn with a black morning coat. It is worth noting all trousers should have a plain bottom, and another good tip is wearing braces to help the trousers hang well and prevent a gap between the trouser waistband and waistcoat.

Oliver Brown also has a bespoke department, for clients who wish to create a completely individual morning suit that is tailored just for them. This is the only way to guarantee you won’t bump into someone else wearing the same suit as you…

So now the fun part – adding colour and personality to your black or grey morning suit.

Traditionally, plain white shirts were worn with a detachable stiff collar and double cuffs, but today pinks, blues and stripes are all encouraged. What’s more, the morning waistcoat is the tone-setter of your outfit, enabling you to be bold and add panache with a striking silk piece.

And when it comes to knowing how to button up your waistcoat, there are several theories about why the bottom button of a single-breasted waistcoat is left undone; ranging from King Edward VII becoming so large he had to leave his bottom button undone, (and his courtiers followed suit), to horse riders leaving the bottom button undone to make their waistcoats fit better while sitting down – likely the most practical explanation.

As for the smaller, but equally important accessories to perfect the finer details, most people choose a simple tie in a grey, red, light blue, or yellow – though brighter colours are allowed – and a tie pin is a traditional touch, but not a necessary. A plain or patterned silk or linen pocket square is also a refined finishing touch and a sophisticated way to add a pop of colour.

“It’s all about the shirt, tie and handkerchief,” says Kristian. “Pocket watches can be a lovely addition as well. Even spats if you want to go old school!”

Perhaps the most important thing to get right, yet the easiest thing to get wrong, is selecting a perfectly proportioned top hat that will complement your height and face shape.

A symbol of urban respectability and status in the nineteenth-century, silk top hats are now so rare, with no looms capable of producing the original material anymore, that antique hats are in great demand. A black silk or grey fur top hat (antique silk plush if possible), should sit 1” above the ear and sit forwards so that it is positioned flat over the head.

“Elegant all-silk top hats are the nicest, most lightweight hats you can wear,” says Kristian. “The key things to consider when choosing a top hat are that it fits you, it’s the right height on your head, and that it’s polished and in good condition. Our team at Oliver Brown will assist you in making the right choice. We are also cleaning top hats in the Royal Enclosure, in the Queen Anne Enclosure and in the Paddock Shop during Royal Ascot.”

There is also some etiquette to be observed around top hats. Gentlemen should remove their hat when greeting a lady or during the national anthem, and the only other instances when top hats may be removed are within a restaurant or Private Box, or within an enclosed external seating area, terrace, balcony, or garden.

Ultimately, despite the strict rules and requirements to adhere to, the most important thing to remember at Royal Ascot is that morning dress should be colourful and fun. So, dress yourself immaculately, and then forget all about it.

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