

Words: Patrick Tillard
Beneath the buildings and pavements lining St. James’ Street is a series of wine cellars, covering an area the size of two football pitches. Here, taking the on-street shop into consideration, where Berry Bros. & Rudd have traded from since 1698, 150 people go about their day-to-day business.
It is just one of the interesting facets to Britain’s oldest wine merchants, which now has offices in Japan, Singapore and Hong Kong, and holds two Royal Warrants for H.M. The Queen and H.R.H. The Prince of Wales. Another is that members of the Berry and Rudd families continue to own and manage the company, such as Creative Director Geordie Willis, who represents the 8th generation to be involved (his mother is a Berry).

“My grandfather was Chairman, and a great influence, so I fast developed a deep-rooted interest in wine,” says Geordie. “But I never thought I would end up working full time in the industry.” In fact, so influential was his grandfather that Geordie has the quote ‘Tis the cask not the coffer that holds the true wealth’ tattooed on his side in his mentor’s handwriting.
“It was only after I began working Saturdays in the shop – to compensate for the poor pay in publishing at the time – that my interest blossomed into a serious passion.”
This passion is something that forms the very backbone of Berry Bros, with a 300-strong team split between London and Hampshire offering an unparalleled exploration of wine. They have a wine school, wine club and the ability to host up to 800 events a year, all administered with a bottomless depth of knowledge.

“In a supermarket people tend to pick wines depending on the label or the price, whereas in store we are able to guide customers through the various steps of choosing wine, be it for food pairing, a preferred taste, a hidden gem, or the best value for money, which can be anything from £8 to £25,000 depending on what they’re after. It’s a great feeling to match a customer to a wine and see them return to broaden their horizons.”
Geordie is a patent oenophile, both in business and pleasure. He travels to 5-10 regions a year, “falling in love which each of the vineyards as I learn about their methods and originalities. I am very fickle like that – at the moment I am enjoying wines from Sicily, but then I’ll visit Bordeaux and wonder why I ever went anywhere else. There’s always more to learn, and there are wines to suit varying seasons, foods, price points and occasions. That’s the fun of wine.”

From fun we swiftly move on to aspiration, namely the 10 wines every gentleman should aspire to drink during his lifetime, having rare or expensive they may be…
- 1994 Viña Tondonia Blanco, Gran Reserva, Bodegas R. López de Heredia, Spain
- 1961 Ch. Palmer, Margaux, France
- 1971 La Tâche, Domaine de la Romanee Conti, France (Magnum)
- 1990 Ch. Montrose, St Estèphe, France
- 1977 Graham’s Vintage Port, Portugal
- 1971 Ridge Monte Bello, Ridge Vineyards, USA
- 2004 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo, Italy
- 2001 Ch. D’Yquem, Sauternes, France
- 2009 Riesling, Clos Ste Hune, Trimbach
- 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge Château de Rayas