The City of Lights brightens up for Men’s Fashion Week

Paris Fashion Week – Day 3, 2, 1

By Cole Simmons

The Gentleman’s Journal Fashion Editor

DAY 3

1. Junya Watanabe

Nineteenth century immigrants to Ellis Island were the inspiration behind the always outlandish (former protégé of Rei Kawakubo) Junya Watanabe’s latest collection today. While structure is a pivotal component of the makeup of the brand a new approach to patchwork was yet again redesigned. Although there was an undeniable trace of the Wantanabe DNA in the clothes it was neither boring nor predictable, literal or excessive. Stiff denim trousers were rolled up, in some cases exposing sailor-like navy stripped socks (one could imagine the early immigrants wearing as they first arrived in the brave New World). Each look was topped off with handsome bowler hats as the padded trench coat trend continued. All eyes however, were on the navy wool duffle: the perfect investment piece. Overall the show was perfectly imperfect proving while none of us regret not having lived in a time of nineteenth century immigration there’s no harm in dressing like a twenty-first century take on one.

2. Margiela

Margiela’s unapologetic, unorthodox designs have always been creativity first, commercialism second. Today’s looks once again broke down the barrier between the elegant and the casual consumer. Once used as a necessity to make use of every scrap: patchwork this season has been seen on some of the most influential runways this month. Today, the patchwork trend continued as Margiela used army socks to create navy sweaters paired with muted trousers and even more daring pairings of fur patchwork coats with beautifully cut red trousers. My outlook on a fur coat will never be the same. As twenty first century musical genius Kanye West (who was at today’s show) once wrote, “what’s that jacket Margiela?” And while you’re free to disagree with Kanye West there is no denying whether you love it or loathe it, one word that can never be used to describe Margeila is boring.

3. Ann Demeulemeester

“Fashion has a right to exist, because it permits the people to define themselves over and over again,” said Ann Demeulemeester. What a poetic way of summing up one of the most poignant explanations on why fashion is never ‘what is now’, but consistently creating a way for cultures to build a bridge to ‘what is next’. Black military boots and flowing silk offered a romantic feel as details of pleated sleeves adorned many jackets which covered dramatically long mohair sweaters. Bowler hats were worn, pulling together a soft but edgy collection. My advice: rather than sift through piles and piles of Victorian clothes in a Portebello market you ought to order the collection vis-à-vis the market. You’ll thank me later.

4. Dries Van Noten

‘The life of the party’ is perhaps the last way Belgian designer Dries Van Noten would be described, yet the softly spoken starting point was “the morning after a wild night,” said Dries Van Noten of his latest collection. The black velvet smoking jacket was my favourite but then there was also the multicoloured dressing gowns in paisley prints, pyjama silks and loosely designed trousers fit for a king. Jackets were made from Indian scarves in a decadent precision only Dries can design with the necessary nonchalance to make us all want more.

5. Cerruti

Light and refined, without any concession to conceit or arrogance Cerruti’s designs cater to the sophisticated gentleman ready for breakfast, brunch or the boardroom meeting. The latest collection offered classic clothing all without any sight of a (bow or neck) tie throughout the show, giving way to a new formal way of dressing. The show was lively with clean lines of navy, grey, tan and beige combined the myriad oxblood reds and do-or-die black nuances.

DAY 2

1. Kolor

Whether optical or tactile, Kolor’s creative director Junichi Abe designs each season are always sensational. Incredibly classic with a hint of colour here and there with elegant detail including a number of eye catching dip-dyed blue and cream jackets. The glossy sailor shoes, the loose fitted trousers, and the mixture of conventional and unconventional cuts on suit jackets and separates were beautifully designed without sacrificing any aplomb.

2. Louis Vuitton

There were at least three strong points from Kim Jones’ Louis Vuitton collection today: menswear floral can look exquisitely masculine and elegant simultaneously, even if that is a complete contradiction to what I saw on the runways yesterday. With luxurious overcoats and fur detailed collars fit for rockstar royalty. Jumpers with safari animals gave a modern feel to the quintessential Parisian look which today proved is not a distant memory of the Old World but is not only the way one ought to dress but the way one can dress.

3. Victor and Rolf

Graphic print travel bags, blazers and jumpers appeared consistently throughout the Victor and Rolf collection among sharply tailored trousers along with a brilliantly executed use of sequins that looked more posh than dosh. Every piece fun yet sophisticated in a signature British flare style… Snoeren and Horsting consistently deliver.

4. Phillip Lim

The Asian American designer Phllip Lim has admitted in the past he was once unsure “fashion was even for him”. Today there was no second-guessing this is what the young genius was born to do. Ankle length trousers with an equestrian inspired effect, fitted coats in military green and sleeveless American college varsity style tops paired with loose black leather trousers had a touch of rebel. My prediction is we can all expect to see Kanye West in many of these looks on his next concert tour. Remember, you heard it here first!

5. Yohji Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto may not appear to have any idea what proportion is but if you believe the oversized purple dyed wool coat in today’s collection was anything but intentional you’re sadly mistaken. The Japanese designer is one of very few master tailors in the industry and among even fewer who always get it right… but not following what everyone else is doing nor bows to the commercial pressures that editors and buyers have become so quick at reminding designers of. With an ode to the past Yamamoto accomplished the technical and the elegant and with navy, burgundy and grey double-breasted blazers, 1940s trousers and Scottish styled kilts catered equally to young and old. Simply a perennial triumph.

DAY 1

1. Julien David

The clothes were oversized, anti-establishment in nature and youthful, the shoes casual and playful with white shoe laces as well as round, white soles. Julien David, unlike so many designers who show in Paris offered clothes that were not only wearable but undeniably inspired by sportswear and modern urban masculinity. Did I understand the point of view of Julien David…yes. Were the clothes of a high quality? Yes, woven especially in Japan. Did I love the show? I’m still not sure. What I am sure however is the collection was definitely more street than chic.

2. John Lawrence Sullivan

African python and crocodile textures along with an intentional nod to the English dandy were all beautifully translated in today’s John Lawrence Sullivan show. While the collection could have edited out all, and yes, I do mean all of the floral print blazers and shirts the designer made up for it with understated, classic muted tones of navy, grey and ebony suits; both double-breasted and single buttoned. An ebony suit with a fur collar, paired with black gloves was by far the most desirable offering of the show.

3. Carven

Cropped trousers and woollen hoods were the name of the game at the Carven collection today. The French fashion house has recently hit their stride at delivering the goods to menswear enthusiasts on and off the Continent. Which today meant knitted bomber jackets paired with matching jumpers underneath for a casual, pulled together layered look. While many of the trousers looked as if they were worn on a Phd graduate who was unaware he’d left the house in a pair of trousers he’d once worn in grammar school there were a plethora of must have items on the runway. These included a colour blocked navy and black two buttoned wool jacket, a navy and beige colour-blocked mohair jumper and last but not least what quicker way to brighten up a cold winter day than with a pair of Kelly green trousers?

4. Yohan Serfaty’s Y. Project

Yohan Serfaty’s Y. Project collection offered coats, coats, coats and did I mention coats? With a dark otherworldly aesthetic the tailoring was dramatic and sharp, but what was more mesmerising than the silhouette of the overcoats were the expensive fabrics nearly destroyed to create a so-bad-its almost-good look to the leather military boots in hues of green, black and navy. Unfortunately like so many collections shown today, the trend of mid-cut at the calf trousers was continued. The Frenchman no doubt knows how to intentionally make beautiful clothes look off-kilter, now all he has to do is learn how to make beautiful clothes look…more beautiful.

5. Valentino

As I sat waiting patiently for the Valentino show to begin this evening I couldn’t help but smile as the uncertainty of a first day of street inspired shows in Paris today was certainly now over and the promise of exquisite menswear designs from an established fashion house were now on the horizon. The first show of the day to open with a model in black suit and bow tie and close with a long, structured checked brown and off-white overcoat the show offered a certain je nais sais quoi which was lacking on this first day of Paris shows. Proving (what we all already know but can often forget) men can be elegant, refined and have the Lord-of-the manor look. With many of the looks in the collection veering to the conservative consumer with predictable hues of navy, black and grey my favourite look was the green checked blazer superb for a night out with friends or a lunch with one’s father at The Arts Club.