Video -- 6 days ago
Jeremy King’s Ten Rules for Opening a Restaurant
As Simpson’s-in-the-Strand undergoes a glorious resurrection, its beloved restaurateur tells us how we might follow in his footsteps
- Words: Joseph Bullmore
They used to say that everyone had a novel in them. Now it feels much more likely that everyone has a restaurant in them. Our generation is by far the most food-literate and menu-obsessed in history — armchair restaurateurs and back-seat chefs, with opinions, at every new opening or small-plate concept, about which specific shade of terrazzo we would have opted for on the floor instead, or for just how long we might have sous-vided the steak. The romance of the industry is inescapable, even as the business itself seems quite impossible — a bricks-and-mortar allure that grows as the algorithm takes over and the AI revolution leaves us craving authenticity and humanity.
One man who could not have been conjured by ChatGPT is Jeremy King (I almost felt compelled to add a ‘Sir’ at the front, there): the spiritual godfather of London hospitality whose quiet, calm presence has overseen some of the buzziest restaurants on the planet — from the original Ivy to the might of the Wolseley, and more recently the excellent Arlington and the exquisitely handsome The Park. His latest venture might just be his most ambitious yet, however — the resurrection of the beloved and historic Simpson’s-in-the-Strand, whose famous silver carving trolleys will soon rumble across the parquet flooring again following a short hiatus, as they have done since 1828. Here, in the calm before the storm, the city’s restaurateur-in-chief gives us his ten pieces of advice for opening a restaurant of our very own.
What do you look for in a new site?
I look for heart and soul. Which is an annoying answer, because of course it’s hard to define, and I have to feel it.
How important is a restaurant’s name to its success?
I think it can enhance a restaurant. But if you look at a restaurant like one of mine, the Ivy, and you do word association — you get ‘poison ivy.’ There’s also a successful restaurant chain called Chuc’s. Who’d ever open a restaurant with that name? But if a restaurant is any good, the name is immaterial.
What’s the biggest mistake you see most new restaurant owners make?
I think it’s important to keep control. Most of the restaurants that fail are because someone who doesn’t know about restauratering is telling the restaurateur how to do it.
Who’s the most important first hire for a restaurant?
It has to be the general manager. They are going to lead and inspire.
What is your philosophy on interior design?
Great interior design should never shout for attention, but should withstand scrutiny.
Which restaurant trends do you think are overdone or overrated?
Nothing is overdone if it is good. But as with any world, imitation is not the sincerest form of flattery — it’s the weakest form of failure.
How do you first get customers through the door?
There are many ways of getting people through the door. I grew up in a world where it was mainly word of mouth. But I think now one has to use a judicious amount of social media and exposure. But I’m a great narrow-caster rather than a broadcaster. It takes longer — but it yields a much higher success rate.
How do you conjure atmosphere in a restaurant?
I think it’s so much about lighting. Acoustics are incredibly important, but lighting is crucial.
What are your golden rules of service?
Smile. Just smile. People go back to restaurants where the food is not necessarily that good but the service is great. On the other hand, even if the food at a restaurant is fantastic, if the service is not commensurate, people don’t go back.
Do you have a motto that’s guided you in your career in restaurants?
Don’t get upset today about things you’ll have forgotten about tomorrow, next week, or next month. And be kind to each other. The smiling is not just for guests — but for each other, for your colleagues, too.
