Grooming -- 14 days ago
Francis Kurkdjian is the mastermind fragrance designer for his eponymous brand as well as the Dior Perfume Creation Director. Since joining the Maison in 2021, he has been on a mission to reinvent some of Dior's most iconic scents, whether that's the brand's first alcohol-free fragrance or revisiting older scents.
He has created interpretations of the most iconic La Collection Privée signature fragrances (essentially those you can't just grab on your way out of Heathrow airport), and so far he has released interpretations of Gris Dior, Lucky, Rouge Trafalgar, Ambre Nuit and Oud Ispahan, all of which sit in the newer Les Esprits de Parfum collection. Offering luxurious interpretations of the most iconic La Collection Privée signature fragrances, Les Esprits de Parfum are graced with powerful concentrations and double down on how luxurious a fragrance should be.
Now he has turned his attention to the culty favourite Bois D'Argent. Back in 2004, Dior Beauty launched Bois d'Argent. A special moment for the House, it sat within the ultra-exclusive Privé Collection range—essentially meaning you can't just grab it on your way out of Heathrow airport. The nose behind the delightfully fresh fragrance was Annick Menardo, who was instructed by then Creative Director at Dior Homme, Hedi Slimane, to create the olfactory translation of Dior. The top notes included iris, cypress, and juniper berries, which mingled with myrrh, honey, and patchouli.
Transforming Bois d’Argent into a new Esprit de Parfum involved interpreting the promise of its name—an enigmatic blend of wood and metal combined. Tuscan iris pallida combines with balsam, frankincense and vanilla, all of which are brightened by a touch of white honey.
As Kurkdjian released La Collection Privée Esprit de Parfum Bois d’Argent to the world, Gentleman's Journal sat down with the fragrance expert...
Why did you want to turn your attention to Bois d'Argent for the next creation?
Bois d’Argent holds a special place within La Collection Privée as it is part of the original trio of fragrances created originally under Hedi Slimane's direction in 2004. It was the avant-garde of exclusive and private fragrance collections that are now popular, at the forefront of bringing back the idea of luxury. Over the years it has become a true icon, elegant, instantly recognizable. The Collection of the Esprits de Parfum is a way to elevate a few iconic scents within La Collection Privée. After reinterpreting fragrances like Gris Dior, Lucky and Rouge Trafalgar, I felt it was the right time to continue with Bois d’Argent and express its essence in a more radical, concentrated form. It was an opportunity to both pay tribute to its timeless beauty and to push its identity even further.
How have you reinterpreted it, while remaining true to the original scent?
Creating an Esprit de Parfum is a way to give my very own vision of an existing scent. I see Bois d’Argent as a poetic and mysterious oxymoron that combines sensual wood with shining metal. I chose to increase that dialogue by pushing its addictive noble facets to extremes. I focused on iris, which for me is Dior's 6th flower, after rose, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose and lavender. Iris is in Dior Homme, but also in Bois d’Argent. I created a contrast within the facets of Iris, creating an olfactive tryptic with 3 pillars: the iris/orris natural extract of course, warm, fluffy, powdery and glossy, combined with the ambergris-like, addictive and woody nuances of AmbroxanTM, and shimmering honeyed frankincense accord, that brings richness, depth and an enveloping feeling. The result is a fragrance that radiates complexity and texture. At its core, the Tuscan iris, which is an iconic flower for Dior, brings elegance and harmony to the composition.
What is the process like?
First, it comes with the inspiration and the creative path I want to follow. Then, as for the other Esprits de Parfum, for Bois d’Argent it began with stripping the composition down to its essence—a kind of olfactory minimalism. From there, I redefined its olfactory line with radical intent, identifying the most addictive, noble facets and pushing them further. It’s about creating a concentrated interpretation, like preparing a toile before crafting the final couture piece. Every note must serve a purpose, and the final result should reveal the purest expression of the fragrances.
How long did it take for you to get to the final composition?
Creating a scent, from the first idea until it reaches the audience, takes about 18 months in total. This includes creation, manufacturing and all the different processes involved in creating a scent.
For you, what makes a fragrance special?
A fragrance becomes truly special when it resonates emotionally. A beautiful scent goes beyond its ingredients; it has power to be both deeply personal and universally evocative.
Why do you think Bois d'Argent has such an alluring power?
The fragrance signature (what it smells like) and its trail (the sillage, as we say in French) are the two main markers for measuring the success of a perfume. As I mentioned before, the power of this particular fragrance lies in its ambiguity. Even its name—Bois d’Argent, or “Silver Wood” in English suggests a poetic contradiction, something both grounded and ethereal. The scent captures that duality beautifully, the softness of iris, the mysticism of frankincense, the warmth of amber. It has a skin-like intimacy, but also a bright presence. It’s understated yet unforgettable.
La Collection Privée Esprit de Parfum Bois d’Argent, £380, dior.com
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