Style

With the ‘Otis’, Cheaney stitches together classic craftsmanship and modern style

The British brand’s new trainer uses sidewall stitching to create a durable, resoleable sneaker that’s as comfortable as it is versatile

Words: Jonathan Wells

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Talk about re-training. For over a dozen decades, the generational workforce at Cheaney has been honing the intricate art of formal shoemaking. And, perhaps most notably, mastering the high-effort, heavy-duty craft of Goodyear-welting.

But the latest kicks to stride out of the Northamptonshire factory call on few of these time-honoured techniques. Instead, they mark something of a sidestep for the brand: a bold new foray into the world of trainers.

Dubbed the ‘Otis’, the design is a sharp, sophisticated answer to a growing gap in modern men’s wardrobes — that space between polished leather lace-ups and runaround, knockabout sneakers. It’s a forward-thinking move from the custodians of tradition at Cheaney. And while the new season collection still delivers the trusty chukkas and Chelseas we’ve come to expect from the brand, it’s these trainers that have turned Gentleman’s Journal’s head.

There’s something quietly revolutionary about such a revered and historic shoemaker trying trainers on for size (the Otis will be available in sizes 6 through 13, incidentally). Many homegrown manufacturers outsource their sportier shoe production to overseas workshops, but every example of Cheaney’s new style will be crafted in the same Desborough-based factory as the brand’s other offerings, to ensure its quality and unmistakably British provenance.

And there’s a reason for that. Cheaney knows its artisans are among the best, so why export production elsewhere when they could simply retain and retrain an already-skilled workforce in some new methods and techniques?

These techniques also took time to master — 16 months of innovation to guarantee the brand’s trainers were as tough and long-lasting as their heaviest, hardiest boots. The Otis relies on a method called ‘sidewall stitching’, an approach rarely seen outside specialist production and one that requires new tools, fresh processes, and vast reserves of patience to perfect.

It was unfamiliar territory, then, for the Goodyear-welting experts at Cheaney’s factory. But, when traditional techniques have ruled the day for over a century, a new challenge can be enticing. As such, the skilled shoemakers knuckled down and set to work, adapting their craft — without diluting it — and creating something quite unique: a resoleable trainer with the benefits of a welted shoe, but the comfort of casual footwear.

The design, too, stays true to Cheaney’s rich, restrained heritage. You won’t find any oversized contrast logos or fashion-forward gimmicks here; no novelty soles or loud colour options. Instead, the Otis is initially available in brown ‘Whiskey Kudu’ leather, alongside navy and olive grain options. Soon, the collection will expand to include classic white grain and ‘Waxy Commander’, a water-resistant leather with a subtly matte, rugged finish.

And every Otis also features the ‘JC’ motif, borrowed from the brand’s crest and discreetly embossed onto the trainer’s tongue. The silhouette of the style is low-profile and sharply shaped, perfect for pairing with suits and selvedge jeans alike. And those leathers — like every textile Cheaney uses — are soft but full-bodied, sourced from European tanneries with just as much nous and know-how as the British brand itself.

And these leathers are key to comfort. While it’s wise to be sceptical of shoemakers who promise ‘comfort from day one’ — which can suggest a lack of quality and durability — the Otis has been designed in such a way that it delivers both. The leather lining adapts quickly, the insoles flex appropriately, and to guarantee longevity the rubber sole unit is stitched rather than glued on. The design even supports resoling when required — an almost unique feature in the world of trainers.

“With the shift in consumer preferences away from traditional welted footwear, rather than importing goods from overseas, we’ve added sidewall stitched construction for sneakers to our production line, which will be gradually released into our collections,” says William Church, Cheaney co-owner.

“It’s uncommon for a factory like ours to adopt an entirely new method of shoemaking and we don’t want to take away from Goodyear welting as that is a huge part of who we are, but our skilled craftspeople have embraced it, and we are very excited to share the Otis.”