Billecart-Salmon’s Le Sous Bois is made for crisp autumn evenings

This characterful champagne is perfect for pairing with in-season truffles and mushrooms

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Champagne is for all seasons. Whether you’re toasting the new year or celebrating sunshine, there is rarely an occasion for which champagne won’t do. However, it cannot be denied that some champagnes taste even better when savoured at certain times of the year.

As days shorten and the air becomes brisk, we’re reaching for one champagne in particular. Le Sous Bois is a unique cuvée from Champagne Billecart-Salmon, a 207-year-old family-run estate. Vinified in oak and composed of the three Champenois grape varieties – Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs; Premier and Grand Cru Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, Aÿ and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ; and Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne – it has a vibrant energy and complex character that makes it the perfect accompaniment to rich autumnal dishes showcasing seasonal ingredients like mushrooms and truffle.

On the nose, expect aromas of baked apple, stone fruits and flaky pastry, while the palate experiences subtle notes of brown butter and gentle spices. Le Sous Bois is expressive but refined, exactly what one craves on a crisp autumn afternoon or evening – perhaps enjoyed fireside, or even alfresco, as you make the most of the remaining sunshine before the clocks change.