Food & Drink -- 8 days ago
8 must-try Japanese whiskies, recommended by the experts
We asked the connoisseurs behind London’s top-rated Japanese bars for their finest, most sought-after bottles…
Words: Jonathan Wells
Japan began producing whisky in the late 19th century, but it wasn’t until the 21st that it brimmed over into global markets. Much of the spirit’s newfound awareness was due to 2003’s Lost in Translation, in which a black-tied, bleary-eyed Bill Murray did his utmost to sell us on “Suntory Time”. But the truth is, this Japanese spirit sells itself — as London’s best bar managers and mixologists will tell you.
“Hibiki 17 Year Old was the whisky that appeared in that movie,” says Melissa Frangi of Kingsland Road’s MAP Maison, explaining that Japanese whiskies are lighter and more floral than other styles. “Much of that is thanks to innovative Japanese craftsmanship,” she adds, “where they’re more focused on producing fantastic blends rather than single malts.”
Common flavour notes found in Japanese whiskies include coconut, tobacco, sandalwood and oriental spices, which are all derived from the nation’s idiosyncratic whisky-making methods. Pierpaolo Schirru is the head mixologist at rooftop izakaya bar 8 at The Londoner. He explains that “while it follows the scotch-making process, Japanese whisky comes into its own thanks to unique ingredients such as native Mizunara oak and pristine spring water.
“The secret ingredient, though,” he adds, “and one often guarded by the distilleries, is the yeast, which shapes the whisky’s distinct character. The combination creates a profile that’s elegantly smooth, with the Mizunara oak adding subtle spice and depth that sets it apart from anything else.”
"The secret ingredient is the yeast..."
And the whisky world has noticed. Maxim Kassir is director of wine and sake at The Aubrey (recently voted London’s finest Japanese restaurant and bar) and he credits the spirit’s recent upsurge in interest to a number of factors. “Over the past decade, international awards, a global fascination with Japanese culture and limited availability have all driven huge demand,” he says. “Add to that its versatility — from slow, contemplative pours to crisp, refreshing Japanese highballs — and you’ve got a style that appeals to collectors and casual drinkers alike.”
Who better, then, than these experts to recommend the best Japanese whiskies to try today? Here are eight bottles perfect for broadening your home bar’s horizons…
Hibiki Harmony
Recommended by: Maxim Kassir, The Aubrey
What he says: “Suntory’s masterclass in blending. Malt from Yamazaki and Hakushu with grain from Chita creates notes of orange blossom, sandalwood and white chocolate. Approachable, yet elegant."
How to serve it: Neat, or in a grapefruit twist highball.
Suntory Toki
Recommended by: Pierpaolo Schirru, 8 at The Londoner
What he says: “Toki means ‘time’, and this from Suntory is a great choice for highball lovers. It’s smooth, with a refreshing citrusy kick and a spicy finish. The beauty of Toki is in its simplicity, which makes it perfect for laid-back evenings.”
How to serve it: Ice-cold with soda in a 3:1 ratio.
Nikka from the Barrel
Recommended by: Melissa Frangi, MAP Maison
What she says: “Nikka has a touch of Scottish style, so this one’s perfect for those who enjoy a more traditional whisky. It’s composed of malt and grains from two Nikka-owned distilleries, Yoichi and Miyagikyo, but also malt whisky from the Ben Nevis Distillery. Expect notes of cedar, dried mango, and woodsmoke.”
How to serve it: Neat, or with a drop of water. It’s also a great choice for a Japanese Old Fashioned.
Hatozaki 12 Years Old Umeshu Cask Finish
Recommended by: Maxim Kassir, The Aubrey
What he says: "This is a fresh face, and one which is showing the experimental side of Japanese whisky. Using casks which previously held umeshu — a liqueur made from plums — adds a subtle stone-fruit sweetness of its light malt base."
How to serve it: Over a large ice ball, or in a bitters-tinged highball for a playful twist.
Kaiyo Peated Mizunara Oak
Recommended by: Melissa Frangi, MAP Maison
What she says: “One for peaty whisky lovers. This is an absolutely outstanding whisky with zesty, fruity notes of orange peel and green apples, and I usually recommend it be enjoyed neat, or served with a splash of water alongside a nice food pairing.”
How to serve it: With smoked salmon or rich meats, such as beef or lamb. Alternatively, alongside dark chocolate to pair with the whisky’s peaty, salty notes.
Hibiki 21 Year Old
Recommended by: Pierpaolo Schirru, 8 at The Londoner
What he says: “This is a luxurious choice — an award-winning whisky that’s been aged for 21 years to ensure it delivers layers of depth and elegance. Perfect for sipping neat, or in a refined Old Fashioned.”
How to serve it: Neat, or with a few drops of sugar and bitters over an ice ball.
Yamazaki 12 Year Old
Recommended by: Melissa Frangi, MAP Maison
What she says: “Yamazaki was the first distillery open in Japan, and they create whisky with a very smooth and complex flavour profile. This has a profile of peach, pineapple and coconut notes complemented by spice and incense aromas due to its aging in Mizunara casks.”
How to serve it: Either neat, or on the rocks.
Chichibu 10 Year Old ‘The First Ten’
Recommended by: Maxim Kassir, The Aubrey
What he says: “A benchmark for Japanese craft whisky. This small-batch gem from Ichiro Akuto delivers orchard fruit, honey and gentle spice. Limited, expressive and a true collector’s bottle.”
How to serve it: Neat, or as a minimalist Mizuwari to let those layers shine.
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