Watch of the Week: Breitling Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis
Breitling looks to one of the coolest men ever to wear a Navitimer for its latest limited edition, but the watch arrives at an equally interesting moment for the brand itself.
- Words by: Harry Jarman
Georges Kern may have been the busiest man in watchmaking last week. At Geneva Watch Days, the House of Brands CEO was overseeing the launch of Breitling’s latest Navitimer and, on the very same day, the relaunch of Gallet. Then, judging by his Instagram, he somehow ended up at a collectors’ dinner in Mexico that evening for Universal Genève.
Three very different watchmakers, but now all part of the newly formed House of Brands, an increasingly interesting new force in Swiss watchmaking. Breitling remains its hero brand, while the revival of Gallet and Universal Genève gives Kern an opportunity to build something considerably bigger around it.
But we’re here to talk about Breitling. And, more specifically, a new Navitimer dedicated to one of the coolest men ever to wear one: Miles Davis.
This isn't simply another celebrity-inspired limited edition. Davis actually wore a Navitimer ref. 806 Mk5 during the 1960s, at a time when the Navitimer was still far more closely associated with pilots than musicians. In doing so, he helped transform a professional instrument into an object of style.
The new Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis marks the centenary of the musician's birth and is limited to just 500 pieces. More importantly, Breitling has resisted the temptation to overdo things.
The 41mm stainless-steel case matches the diameter of Davis's original, while the monochrome reverse-panda dial, cream-coloured Super-LumiNova and period-correct Twin Jet logo give the watch a wonderfully convincing Sixties character. Inside sits Breitling's hand-wound Manufacture Calibre B09, visible through the sapphire caseback and offering approximately 70 hours of power reserve.
There are two ways to wear it. The first is on a gradient brown calf-leather strap. But our choice would undoubtedly be the revived Air Racer bracelet. Originally introduced during the 1960s and later famously worn by Serge Gainsbourg, its perforated, rally-inspired links look superb against the busy Navitimer dial.
And there is something rather fitting about Davis being celebrated through the Navitimer. He dressed brilliantly, drove exotic cars and understood that style was not something separate from creativity. Even Bob Dylan once described him as his “definition of cool”.
The Navitimer followed a similar trajectory. Created in 1952 as a genuine aviation instrument, it eventually escaped the cockpit and found its way onto the wrists of everyone from Jim Clark and Graham Hill to Serge Gainsbourg. Davis was instrumental in that transition.
Seventy-four years later, the Navitimer remains Breitling's great icon. And as Kern begins building his new House of Brands around it, this feels like a particularly good reminder of why Breitling remains the house's main attraction.
Breitling
Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis
Calfskin Leather
Breitling
Navitimer B09 Chronograph 41 Tribute to Miles Davis
Stainless Steel
For more information head to Brietling
