SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

As the year’s first luxury watch fair kicks off, we take a look at some of the star pieces

Where the watch industry meets, and where the year’s new trends are revealed, SIHH is now in its twenty-seventh year – and the innovation and excitement doesn’t look set to let up any time soon. This year, the watch industry will once more turn the spotlight on some of the most inventive and beautiful new timepieces. Here are our 10 picks to look out for at SIHH 2018.

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

This striking Double Tourbillon movement – which appears to be floating free from the rest of the watch – was first developed at Cartier’s La Chau-de-Fonds manufacture in 2013. In its newest home – a 45mm hand-polished platinum case, with drawn flanks and chamfered bridges, the tourbillon sits in a transparent skeleton, and is limited to just 30 pieces. Note the blued steel sword shaped hands, 12 o’clock subdial and polished screw heads – pure Cartier class.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Cartier Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon

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Baume et Mercier Clifton Club Burt Munro

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

One of the funnest watches on show at SIHH this year, Baume et Mercier’s tribute to the great Burt Munro is bright, fun and full of pep – like the man himself. Limited to 1967 pieces – to honour the year that he set the under 1,000cc world record at Bonneville – this watch holds many nods to the achievement. The bezel is engraved with the record of 184mph, the Indian Headdress logo of the Indian Motorcycle Company features on the back, and a large, yellow number 35, Munro’s lucky number, in the chronograph seconds counter.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Baume et Mercier Clifton Club Burt Munro

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Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Titanio

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

It was now two years ago that Panerai first introduced their Luminor Due models. The Due range had cases 40 per cent thinner than the usual Luminors, and this year sees this range grow even more – with four new models added to the line. Our pick of the new arrivals is the 3 Days Titanio, a brushed titanium case that measures at only 10.5mm thick. The patented bridge-and-lever decide that protects the crown is still in place, and this ensures the 30 metre water resistance. And there’s beauty too, in the form of a sun-brushed blue dial that uses Panerai’s iconic ‘sandwich’ style in its construction.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Titanio

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Parmigiani Fleurier: Toric Capitole

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

A one-off piece, this offering from Parmigiani is more than a wristwatch. A minute repeater that chimes the time on demand, the Toric Capitole shows the time using a three-pronged rotating central arm that points to a retrograde scale that rules around the top half of the dial. But the double-edged rose gold case and diamond ridged brushed silvered dial are the real stars here – textures and colours that may, on paper, oppose, but come together on the strap.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Parmigiani Fleurier: Toric Capitole

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A.Lange & Sohne 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

In honour of company founder Walter Lange, who passed away in January 2017, A. Lange & Söhne is enriching the 1815 model family with an extraordinary complication: The 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange”. The 1815 “Homage to Walter Lange” masters both chronometric disciplines. The small seconds hand in the subsidiary dial at 6 o’clock maps the frequency of 21,600 semi- oscillations per hour by performing six small steps as it advances from marker to marker. However, the blued sweep seconds hand performs precise jumps from second to second.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

A.Lange & Sohne 1815 ‘Homage to Walter Lange’

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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Re-Edition

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Since the line’s launch in 1993, Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Offshore range has been an uninterrupted flow of new ideas in form, function and materials. More than 120 references have been created, and this 2018 celebratory re-edition remains faithful to the very first, with its stainless steel case, blue rubber crown and push pieces and signature blue dial with ‘Petite Tapisserie’ pattern. Inside, however, the watch isn’t so faithful to the original: the self-winding calibre incorporates 25 years of horological upgrades and improvements.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Re-Edition

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IWC Tribute to Pallweber

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

As one of the 27 limited edition models released to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the Schaffhausen-based brand, this Tribute to Pallweber Edition 150 Years is our favourite on show at SIHH. Based on the same display as a pocket watch that fell out of production in 1890, this heritage wristwatch comes in a 18k red gold case, and is surprisingly compact on the wrist. At 45mm, this isn’t a small watch, but a larger dial allows for features such as the enamel-evoking lacquer and 3D inscriptions to shine through.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

IWC Tribute to Pallweber

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Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface ‘Casa Fagliano’

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

The Reverso is as close as you can come to a modern watchmaking icon. Despite having its roots in the 1930s, Jaeger LeCoultre continue to keep this cornerstone of their range fresh, and this newest Tribute DuoFace is no different. Featuring Dauphine hands for the hours and minutes, a small second at 6 and the classic Art-Deco styling for the indexes and tracks, this is an elegant, refined watch – class only elevated by the slate grey dial. Casa Fagliano, the famed Argentinian bootmakers, have also lent their talents to the strap – specially-designed and hand-crafted for each piece.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface ‘Casa Fagliano’

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Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

In 2013, the Altiplano 900P broke records as having a thickness of just 3.65mm. This week at SIHH, the Ultimate concept pushes even further towards the extreme of what is technically possible in ultra thin watches.  At just 2mm, the case is crafted from a ultra-rigid and robust cobalt-based alloy for strength, and the design of the watch means that everything – from balance spring to ball-bearing mechanism – is visible. It’s quite the achievement – but posits the question: Is this the thinnest they can go?

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Automatic 910P

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Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

On the thicker side, at 12.8mm, Vacheron Constantin are bring their new Overseas Dual-TIme to the SIHH table. Available in steel or rose gold, and with dials in either translucent blue or silver-toned lacquer, this is a watch solid in both design and engineering. Showing two time zones, the watch is reliable and has an impressive 60 hour power reserve. And, to add to the versatility, we also love the additional straps the model is available with. Blue rubber, blue alligator, stainless steel bracelet, black rubber or brown, the combinations are endless.

SIHH 2018 Preview: Cartier, IWC, Panerai and more

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual-Time

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Further Reading