Style -- 9 hours ago
For more than two centuries, Purdey has been the defining name in game shooting, having equipped multiple generations with custom-made rifles and shotguns. Today, each design is valued as a symbol of an illustrious craft history – what ‘we produce is a legacy on its own’, says the brand – and, across the venture’s storied past, notable clients have included Dwight D. Eisenhower, Charles Darwin and the royal family, with the latter connection resulting in several royal warrants.
Purdey Autumn/Winter 2024, shop.purdey.com
To complement this side of the business, Purdey also lends a deft hand at creating attire for outdoor pursuits, and its heritage-style aesthetic is firmly stamped across its versatile collection of tweed, suede and quilted jackets; knitted waistcoats; and gilets. There is a strong use of insulating, waterproof fabrics, a necessary move given the British climes’s mercurial spirit, and each piece is intended to be worn around the countryside, year after year. In order to suit the hues of the outdoors, the ranges also tend to lean on a colour palette of earthy greens, browns, and the odd flash of navy.
For its Autumn/Winter 2024 collection, the British maker has looked back towards its early days on Mount Street, Mayfair – where it opened its first clothing and accessories store – and has paired that heritage spirit with a contemporary outlook. ‘Grounded in British tradition, driven by innovation and made by and for those who love the great outdoors,’ says the label of the new range.
As with all Purdey collections, outerwear is the focal point here. Take the Winchester Quilted Jacket, for instance – this season, we see this versatile piece in a walnut colourway and produced from a technical cotton that repels rain. Featherweight HD Wool wadding also regulates the temperature as and when the climes fluctuate, and snap fastenings and cord details add the final flourishes.
Part of the same family is the Cambridge Quilted Gilet, also in walnut and drawing upon wool that facilitates thermoregulating warmth and is sourced sustainably within the UK. Neither too heavy nor too light, it’s the ideal piece for layering.
On the heavier side are the Lancaster Range Coat and the Kenwood Coat, both of which take their cues from the Purdey Field Coat, a British style icon. The Lancaster is defined by its storm-blue wool outer, and also features a breathable, technical cotton-mix lining that can be detached; the Kenwood, meanwhile, is notable for its discreet shepherd’s check and comes with a quilted internal lining that facilitates warmth but without any bulk. On both, the pockets are sizeable, allowing you to cart around any accessories with ease.
Additionally, the Raglan Field Coat has a new wool tweed that exhibits a herringbone design with contrasting, autumnal-hued overchecks. The Sympatex Membrane of the liner, which is windproof, ensures warmth.
For this collection, Purdey focuses on ‘British knitwear icons rooted in heritage styles.’ Most notably, cable knits, which historically have different nuances from region to region, have been a key influence, and it’s evident in pieces such as the St Ives Fisherman Rib Jumper. And, for the first time in its history, the label has utilised yarn from the Donegal Yarns mill, in Kilcar, Ireland, the village where the tradition of spinning, weaving and knitting first took root during the 1800s, with the resulting materials bearing flecks of many colours.
From there, the yarns are brought to a team of craftspeople in Scotland who then weave the knits into wearable items, using either the patterns of iconic British cloth as a springboard, or referencing the distinctive style derived from Fair Isle, as evidenced in the Fairisle Falcon Crew Neck Sweater. Additionally, some items are viewed more as a main piece of outerwear – such as the Orkney Windproof Knit Jacket – whereas others are lighter and intended for everyday wear, namely the Lightweight Travel Merino Crew Neck.
Across the collection, you’ll find a ‘JP’ monogram (after James Purdey, the founder), which was developed from an evening slipper discovered in the archives, and it can even be seen on some ornately carved domed horn buttons. Other buttons, meanwhile, are etched with the brand’s rose-and-scroll motif.
Finally, new accessories include a selection of merino wool baseball caps that protect heads from the breeze and drizzle; ribbed wool and cashmere-blend socks; and classic cashmere and silk scarves, all made in the UK.
Whether worn together or as separates, every piece within the collection is timeless in looks, but is made with modern features and techniques, making them not only suitable for the here and now, but for the decades to come.
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