Breguet have begun 2018 by unveiling a long-awaited addition to their Grandes Complications collection: a watch with a “Grand Feu” enamel dial. This new Classique Grandes Complications 5367 also provides a beautifully simple interpretation of the tourbillon, which sits supreme and almost alone on a minimalist dial. According to the watchmaker, the features on the face have been deliberately pared down to essentials in order to give the mechanism the full attention it deserves.
You may think this new watch looks similar to the reference 5377 presented in 2013, but the 2018 edition has no power reserve indicator and – in order to draw the gaze to the key element – Breguet has opted for a graphic hand-bevelled tourbillon bar, topped by a spinel. The blue hands strike a powerful contrast with the immaculate whiteness of the traditional enamel, and the chapter ring – with Breguet Arabic numerals – is off-centred at 11 o’clock to directly face the tourbillon at 5 o’clock – a nice touch by the watchmaker.
This slightly-tilted display layout is reminiscent of the watches created by brand founder A.-L. Breguet, who revelled in revolutionising the aesthetic conventions that typified the timepieces of his era. And, in a display of Breguet’s want to keep things soft and subtle on the face but intricate and meticulously designed inside, the movement is richly decorated – with everything from the bridges and barrel to oscillating weight richly decorated and hand-engraved.
"This new watch provides a beautifully simple interpretation of the tourbillon, which sits supreme and almost alone on a minimalist dial..."
Crafted in platinum for greater inertia, this oscillating weight rotates on the periphery of the calibre, providing a clearer view of the movement as well as ensuring we end up with a slim, lightweight and delicate watch – the new Classique Tourbillon measures a mere 7.45mm thick and its movement just 3mm. We’re also treated to a comfortable 80-hour power reserve.
This distinctive performance is enabled by a “high-energy” barrel, whose patented construction serves to increase the number of coils of its spring and therefore increase the all-important energy storage. Available with its striking “Grand Feu” enamel dial, you can choose from a rose gold or platinum version, respectively fitted with a mahogany brown or blue alligator strap. We particularly like the blue to complement the hands, but nothing beats the classic rose gold and brown leather strap combination; no fuss, but incredibly versatile and proficient – much like the watch itself.
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Check out last week’s Object of Desire: The Graff Eclipse Tourbillon