Style -- 4 hours ago
Since its launch more than a decade ago, GJ has always advocated the small-scale, from tech startups looking to unsettle the scene to bijou clothing labels that source their fabrics from centuries-old family-run mills. There’s a virtue in backing those who want to change the status quo, never settling for the same old products and services the public has grown tired of.
One venture we’ve been drawn to of late is Kempt – named as the antithesis of being unkempt – a small menswear brand that launched in Dublin, in 2022. Rather than going for the all-encompassing approach that many in the style sphere take today, the label, recognising its skeleton team and financial limits, began by focusing on a core collection of classic menswear pieces – items that won't fall victim to the ruthless cycles of fast fashion – all made in limited batches, produced with premium materials and finishes, and anchored by white, blues and natural tones. ‘We believe that the basis to a great wardrobe is simplicity,’ says the brand.
To realise this, Kempt has partnered with small European factories that specialise in and draw upon traditional techniques, and its initial collection zoned in on versatile smart-casual pieces that should form the backbone of any wardrobe – ‘One good casual white shirt rather than four OK ones; one great-fitting trouser rather than a selection of different fits.’
Of particular note is the light-blue Oxford button-down, Kempt’s take on a menswear hero – one popularised by Ivy League students and on-screen heroes, such as Steve McQueen and Paul Newman – that, in this instance, has been woven in Portugal from a 158g cloth and cut in a tailored fit, and the collar has been adjusted slightly to emphasise the roll. Ideal to wear with a pair of navy chinos, or under an unstructured blazer, it sits on that fine line between off-duty and formal. Or, for something with subtle pattern, consider the Oxford-cloth shirt in a Bengal stripe, which comes in a slightly heavier 175g fabric.
Our interest was also piqued with the indigo denim chambray shirt, mainly for its lovely blue hue – something that speaks of brighter days ahead – and lustrous feel. Details, such as the placket and soft cutaway collar, imbue the piece with a traditional feel.
Regarding foundational pieces, Kempt also offers a trio of chinos – that quintessential preppy-inspired must-have – for everyday wear. On offer are options in a ‘natural’ tone, navy and olive, each of which has been done out in a mid-weight 250g stretch cotton for a bit of flexibility, with a tailored fit for a contemporary look. Thanks to their mix-and-match appeal – classic colours, modern lines – the chinos can, just like Kempt’s shirts, be worn in several scenarios, whether paired with some brogues for the boardroom or a summer wedding, or with some minimalist white sneakers when heading for the long weekend away.
To build on its collection, Kempt will introduce some accessories in early spring, starting with two belts that will be handmade, in Italy, from the finest Italian leather.
By updating a considered selection of evergreen items with tailored cuts, Kempt has managed to create a well-edited offering that’s rooted in the past yet relevant to the modern wardrobe.
Now, for the footwear. This is why Goodyear-welted shoes will forever be a smart investment...
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