Gieves & Hawkes AW17 collection brings texture, topcoats and tailoring
The Savile Row stalwarts have pared back on accessories, and brought the noise with outerwear
Found in 1771, and with their headquarters at one of the most prestigious pieces of sartorial real estate in the world – No. 1 Savile Row – Gieves & Hawkes have almost 250 years experience of dressing to impress.
Their latest collection, AW17, is no different. Inspired by the style of the British rock aristocracy, and the character of London’s 1970s recording scene, the iconic tailors have drawn influence from a golden era of Savile Row, when musicians, artists and aristocrats alike enjoyed close personal relationships with their tailors.
For the new campaign, Gieves & Hawkes took their impeccable tailoring to the home of gentlemanly racing, Goodwood House, a bastion for sartorial style and sensibility for an exclusive shoot. Here is the sophisticated, timeless and quintessentially British collection – and our key observations of the new range.
The modern tailoring is integral to Gieves & Hawkes new collection. And, even though the textures and fabrics mix things up – look out for the velvet in particular – the house’s cut has only been slightly refined to bring it in line with a contemporary English feel. Three pieces are designed in indulgent, textured cloths and the focus here seems to be on seamless day to night tailoring. Mission accomplished.
One of the most striking pieces in the AW17 collection is a burgundy silk evening jacket, paired masterfully in the official Goodwood shoot with a black rollneck. But, before we could finish marvelling at the vividly coloured formalwear, we came across another innovation – a bright, bright red velvet jacket, potentially one of the most striking pieces in any collection we’ve seen this year. If you want to make a statement, this is it.
Out on the track, one thing is clear; double-breasted outerwear is in. From the classic mac to the high-collared navy peacoat, Gieves & Hawkes are wasting no time in asserting bold power dressing in their AW17 collection – an emerging theme across many ranges this season.
From red and navy checks to a subtle light grey pinstripe, some of the freshest feeling pieces in this season’s collection come in the form of brightly-patterned topcoats. Simple, single-breasted, but with bold designs and hidden quirks – such as some being reversible – this is sharp, showerproof dressing at its best.
Although there are plenty of scarves, gloves and ties to be seen on the racetrack, the AW17 seems to be fading accessories a little into the background. Making way for statement suede jackets or chunky coloured knitwear, the newest ties tend to be block coloured, the knitted accessories in neutral shades and even the patterned scarves in muted tones. A daring move, but one you can see has paid off handsomely.
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