How Chopard Became A ‘Real’ Watch Maker Again

…and made a lot of high-end collectors extremely happy in the process

Just over twenty years ago, luxury watch and jewellery brand, Chopard, made a bold move that would forever shape the course of its history. Already well-established as one of the last family-run watchmaking and jewellery dynasties, the company had built an enviable reputation for quality and innovative design since its founding in 1860. And yet, Chopard co-director Karl-Friederich Scheufele – the grandson of the man who bought Chopard from the grandson of its original founder in 1963 – knew something was missing.

Back then, all Chopard’s popular watch collections, such as the racing-inspired Mille Miglia series, were powered by movements bought from external suppliers. This was (and still is) common practice at the time, a strategy used by many low to mid-tier mechanical watch brands. Mr. Scheufele, however, had a grander vision for Chopard’s watchmaking future. He wanted to cater to the most discerning clientele of all; high-end watch aficionados. He wanted to prove to them, and the world, that Chopard was a real watchmaker.

Mr. Scheufele, however, had a grander vision for Chopard’s watchmaking future

To do this successfully, Mr. Scheufele knew he would have to transform Chopard into a vertically-integrated watch manufacturer, capable of producing high-quality, complicated watch movements in-house. No mean feat, given the enormous level of investment and expertise required. Undaunted by the challenge, Chopard broke ground in Fleurier, Switzerland, in 1994, on what would become the site of its state-of-the-art manufacturing facility. Two short years later, the company received a very positive reception from both the industry and collectors alike when it unveiled its first in-house movement; the L.U.C 1.96.

The initials L.U.C pay homage to the company’s original founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, and have become synonymous with high-end watchmaking over the past two decades. Nowadays, there are ten distinct families of L.U.C calibres, comprising more than 60 different variations of high-precision mechanisms, all of which are chronometer-certified by the COSC, and all of which have been entirely designed, developed and produced in-house by the Chopard Manufacture. Several also meet the demanding quality criteria of the “Poinçon de Genève” (Geneva Hallmark) or the Fleurier Quality Foundation, guaranteeing an unparalleled level of finishing and quality.

What is perhaps most impressive about the modern L.U.C range however, is just how much breadth and depth the collection offers. There really is something to suit just about all tastes and budgets, from the exceptionally complicated L.U.C Perpetual T equipped with a perpetual calendar and tourbillon escapement, to the exceedingly simple time and date only L.U.C 1937 Classic. And of course, everything in between, including chronographs, moon phases and every other manner of watches created for the discerning modern gentleman.

Of recent note is the L.U.C Time Traveller One and GMT One. Both models were unveiled in 2016 and both have been designed with the gentleman traveller in mind. The Traveller One offers a world-time complication, which allows you to quick and easily set your watch to any of the world’s 24 major time zones, whilst simultaneously displaying the time back home. The GMT meanwhile offers dual-time functionality, with a dedicated GMT hand for indicating a second time-zone. Both models are offered in 42mm cases in your choice of either platinum, 18k rose gold or steel.

What is perhaps most impressive about the modern L.U.C range however, is just how much breadth and depth the collection offers

It’s been a long road for Chopard to get to where it is today, but thanks to the vision of its leaders and a willingness to take risks, the company continues to reap the dividends. As do watch aficionados everywhere, who cannot seem to get enough of the brand’s high-quality craftsmanship and distinctive designs. So, go ahead, take a closer look at the watches from Chopard. You won’t be disappointed.

Tom Mulraney is the Managing Editor of online watch magazine thewatchlounge.com.

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