The best chilled reds for summer

Of all the wine crimes committed by restaurants, arguably the most egregious (along with misguided attempts at hipness by presenting fine wine in tumblers) is serving red wines too warm. Such an offence is far more irksome than serving whites too cool, which can soon be rem edied by some intensive glass-cupping. And the summer months, when temper atures make the indiscretion harder to reverse — and when a soupy red is the last thing anyone wants — is the worst possible time for such malpractice.