To term a country a ‘melting pot’ has become a cliché – so much so that it is almost painful to write. But there is no better term to describe the island of Bermuda. It is, without exception, a beautiful, tropical, colourful and calmly exciting – forgive me – melting pot.
Named for the Spanish sea captain who first landed upon its shores, colonised by the British and taking both architectural and cultural cues from its nearby Caribbean neighbours, the nation is as patchwork and hotchpotch as its muddled flag suggests.
And, while everything from the music to the military of this tiny island territory seems to have struggled to find a common goal to strive towards in the past, that finally changed this year.
Everything from the music to the military of this tiny island territory seems to have struggled to find a common goal in the past
For the first time in the island’s modern history, regardless of race or religion, Bermuda came together to host the most incredible sailing race in the world. The America’s Cup – internationally renowned – took to Bermuda’s Great Sound as six teams of 30 men and six racing catamarans descended on Bermuda to do battle for the 35th iteration of the competition.
And, as a result of common excitement and enthusiasm, the nation now has the wind back in its sails.
Not only did this influx of sportsmen and spectators alike bring money to the island – tourism wasn’t in trouble, but the Cup gave profits a welcome shot in the arm – but this ‘F1 on water’ also proved that Bermuda’s natural beauty held more to offer than simple good looks.
Over the past weeks, these high-speed races have been taking place off the Bermudan shore. On a recent visit, I was lucky enough to sail out into the field on a J-Class yacht and witnessed the effect of the race on wider society from the sophistication of a polished wooden deck.
Reclining on a lounger, with a glass of Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc in hand, I was hardly acting the everyman, but as small tubs and rusting motorboats puttered past, the be-shorted men on board raised a beer my way – enjoying the spectacle just as much as I was.
And this universal appeal is what makes the America’s Cup almost unique in racing. Unlike many high-cost, high-risk sports, sailing is not seen as elitist, and it has allowed Bermudans from every walk of life to buoy themselves back up to become the proud nation they should be.
The America's Cup has pervaded every corner of Bermudan society, in a way nothing else seems to have managed to before
Upon exploring the rest of this pastel-hued, lush green island, there are nods to the Cup everywhere. From the airport, where a banner greets you off the plane reading ‘Welcome to Bermuda, the home of the America’s Cup’, to the smaller cafes and bars, where ‘Rum Swizzles’ are sunk in front of live streams of the races, the race has pervaded every corner of Bermudan society, in a way nothing else seems to have managed to before.
The buildings, perched sporadically across the landscape from the sea front to high in the hills, are brightly painted and topped with angular hurricane-proofed roofs. The locals wear everything from colourful traditional dress to the curiously-popular jacket, tie, shorts and long socks combo.
Even the food can’t make its mind up: traditional aged fish looks – and smells – less than appetising one minute, but then gloriously juicy scallops show that even the seafood is split.
Enjoying a plate of these scallops – paired with a sparklingly good glass of Cloudy Bay’s Pelorus – it becomes evident that, in some ways, these contradictions and inconsistencies across the island serve to give Bermuda its particular charm and tone.
But there comes a point, despite all the cultural quirks afforded by the nation’s patchwork past, when unification feels good. And the America’s Cup can be thanked for putting Bermuda back on course, back on the map and back to its best.
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