Yashin Ocean House turns the tide and comes up trumps

When the people behind one of west London’s best sushi restaurants, Yashin Sushi, opened a sister establishment on Old Brompton Road, it was declared that the menu would feature a “head-to-tail approach to seafood”. An intriguing niche made further compelling when you consider the origins of the chefs include such names as Nobu, Yumi and The Fat Duck., , Unfortunately Ocean’s eat everything ethos didn’t work out quite as planned. It turns out fried mackerel skeleton with fish skin isn’t to the average Kensington socialite’s/yummy mummy’s taste. Who’d have thunk it., , Yashin have now begun to import sushi dishes from their sibling restaurant over to the menu at Ocean House, making for a menu almost as confusing as the décor. Part exposed brick and part Edwardian turquoise tile featuring a life sized horse statue-cum-lamp. We won’t complain though as this road to rebranding is paved with some visually astounding dishes. With sashimi selections served on liquid smoke, the mains are Instagram fodder in the making. However the food is by no means style over substance., , It might be tempting to pick a private table for your more romantic ventures but, unless you’re dating Scarlett Johansson, you’d be missing the main attraction. Sitting at the bar overlooking the chefs at work gives you a real appreciation of the expertise and passion that goes into each plate. The precision makes Benihanas look like glorified meat juggling., , If you can manage (okay, afford) to get a slot, then book the chef’s table for the evening. If you can’t, watch on with green eyes as head chef Daniele Codini takes guests on a marathon of molecular Japanese fusion before their eyes. The envy was so palpable as he plated a tatare with spherified egg yolks that our sake flight almost boiled., , The sushi was, as you’d expect, exceptional. But if we had wanted that we would have gone to the original Yashin so let’s focus on the rest of the menu. The marinated Grouper served with delicate honey foam was a meaty highlight, cut through by a sharp lemon sauce. However, if you really must stray from the fish, the seared Wagyu beef loin is as soft and delicate as any beef raised on tummy rubs and sake can be., , The waiter’s disregard for our original choices may have been taken as rude, but not only were the surprises entertaining, he ensured we were treated to the freshest of ingredients. The charming chef chipped in too, recommending Otoro Nigiri, duck with Etrille Crab Sauce and chilli doused cod’s cheek. They all hit the spot., , For the food then, and perhaps for those in need of a meal more entertaining than their date, Yashin Ocean House deserves a visit.