TopJaw’s Jesse Burgess reviews Goldies in Soho

It’s not uncommon for chefs to actively dislike the owners of the restaurant they work in. After all, to be a chef is to create art – a mantra that admittedly some take more seriously than others. But a chef creates a menu. They are the conductor of what leaves their kitchen. And they want total, unanimous control. That is how the brigade system works and why kitchens are, in a world of increasingly busy HR departments, the last commercial bastion of aggressive militant command.