The biggest Spring/Summer 2026 menswear moments from Milan Fashion Week

As with last season, Milan Fashion Week Men's Spring/Summer 2026 was a little lighter on the ground, with the likes of Fendi, Bottega Veneta and Gucci opting for co-ed shows to be staged during womenswear fashion week in September. The likes of Giorgio Armani, Saul Nash, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana kept the fashion pack busy, with Paul Smith even opting to show in the Italian city. Meanwhile Pal Zileri, Canali and Ralph Lauren Purple Label presented their collections via presentation format, alongside brands such as Church’ and Santoni.

Below are the highlights from the Spring/Summer 2026 shows…

British designer has long had a HQ in Milan, but never shown in the city. He took to a lofty building he's owned for close to 20 years to show his Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which he told us was a trip down memory lane, notably to the markets of Cairo. "It's all based on a beautiful book from Cairo that I bought many years ago, at least 20 years ago, probably more," Smith told us. "And it's a souvenir book of Cairo, but the images are so lovely and weird and a bit odd. They go from deep and rich colours to really vibrant, vibrant hues."

This was translated in the collection as Paul Smith, a man who loves to play around with colours, can do so well. In an intimate salon-style show, Smith presented a collection of bold colours, strong patterns and clashing textiles, which took inspiration from the treasures Smith saw in those Cairo markets. 1950s tailoring comprised cropped jackets and high-waisted trousers, while collages were assembled by hand especially for the collection, and then turned into bold prints and applied to shirts, outerwear, and ties.

"I wanted to prove that there is still a relevance to tailoring, but in a very modern way." Paul told us. "In a way it's put together very comfortably way, with high-quality fabrics, and the pieces are beautifully made. I also want men to be brave, and to mix things up - mix textures, mix colours. Be a modern young man and don't worry about it."

Ahead of Milan Fashion Week, the Giorgio Armani brand sent out news that the house’s designer would not be taking his usual runway bow at either Emporio Armani or Giorgio Armani. Instead head of menswear Leo Dell’Orco would greet guests at the end of each show. That being said, the collections, Giorgio Armani in particular, were inherently Mr Armani.

As fluid as ever, the Armani silhouette is renewed and double-breasted jackets are given shawl collars. They feature low fastenings and are longer in length. To match, wide trousers feature teardrop pleats and are either tapered at the ankle or fall softly with generous turn-ups over suede shoes, sandals and pastel-toned chukka boots.

It was a classic Giorgio Armani collection, with some more playful touches added in, such as key rings worn around necks.

Taking place, as ever, at Fondazione Prada’s Deposito, Prada's collection was a reset for the brand. "A shift of attitude – dismantling of meaning, and dismantling power," read the show notes. The showscape, which is usually elaborately decorated, was bare. Raf Simons and Miuccia Prada, who co-design the Prada collections, wanted the collection to be refreshing in turbulent times.

Micro shorts worn with shirts were presented alongside bodyform tracksuits and double-breasted jackets. The collection offers a sense of escapism and ease, as the world around us presents increasing amounts of turmoil.

Creative director Simon Holloway looked at vintage imagery of Bryan Ferry, King Charles and Charlie Watts for inspiration for the Spring/Summer 2026 Dunhill collection, which was presented in a garden in central Milan. "I wanted to examine the two poles of classic British menswear style, which is the Windsor man, particularly the Duke of Windsor and King Charles, and then the two kings of rock and roll," Holloway told us. "We're probably the only country in the world that has those two poles of reference which are essentially rock and royalty."

Car coats, driving blazers and motoring trench coats - drawn from the House’s Motorities legacy - sat alongside classic lounge suits in shades of royal navy, purple and black, which were styled with high-contrast haberdashery. Blazers were akin to those worn at Wimbledon and the Chelsea Flower Show, while leather jackets would've looked at home on the back of Bryan Ferry.

The Canali Spring/Summer 2026 collection looks to the Grand Turismo racing cars from the 1960s and 1970s for inspiration, paying homage to Monza as part of the Brianza region of Italy.

The collection had a nonchalant class about it, and a mild properness, and pieces of clothing echoed the interiors of luxury cars. Meanwhile tailoring, across suits, blazers, but also signature Nuvola suede trenchcoats and blousons, were loose and free. Elsewhere, Canali's Freccia pattern - the brand's arrow motif - is rendered in macro or micro jacquard on knitted polos and crew neck jumpers.

Canali acts less upon trends, and more upon how clothes move, feel and can be designed to last, and that was evident here.

"For Spring 2026, our journey through the world’s finest textiles is a testament to the modern voyager," said Ralph Lauren's show notes. "From the earthy warmth of daytime to the sophisticated allure of evening, each piece tells a story of adventure and refinement. This is a wardrobe where quality meets utility, where handmade fabrics blend seamlessly with practical purpose. This is the essence of timeless style—where craftsmanship meets the spirit of adventure."

Open-weave sport coats, relaxed knitwear, and silk-and-linen textures, expressed in a sophisticated earthy palette of tan, ivory, browns, and blacks, sat alongside luxurious textured silk tuxedos meet innovative Glen plaid silk twill suits and Art Deco–inspired prints.

It's the ultimate collection for day-to-night dressing, and again highlights Ralph Lauren as a master of this.

For QASIMI’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, which is the third under the creative direction of Hoor Al-Qasimi, the brand looked to its founder, the late Khalid Al Qasimi, for initial inspiration. This comes as the brand marks its 10th anniversary.

After scouring through old interviews and the archives, Hoor Al-Qasimi found that her twin brother had referred to himself as a “hybrid person”, with his education and upbringing in the UK. This idea of hybridity was something that Hoor Al-Qasimi found was reflected in the members of the team commanding the brand today, and so she wanted to create a collection that evoked and celebrated the philosophy of dialogue, cooperation, and shared understanding. . Tailored wool shirts are interestingly paired with tracksuit trousers cut from nylon, while a number of the garments, shirts in particular, have removable sleeves. Some shirts, sheer in design and blouse-like, are double layered to again give a sense of duality.

Church’s presented its new Spring/Summer 2026 collection at the prestigious Piccolo Teatro Studio Melato in Milan. The highlight of the presented collection was the iconic Shanghai model, dating back to 1929, reinterpreted in a contemporary way. Meanwhile the brand showcased its classic loafers, as well as newer styles such as the Portsmouth loafer.

For Spring/Summer 2026, Brioni wanted to offer a collection that had the light-heartedness of its tailoring at its core. "At Brioni, softness means essentially that it is the wearer who comes first, while clothes do the work without being overpowering or overly visual," read the shownotes. The season’s palette consists of rich, desaturated naturals - beiges, sands, light greens, blues, pinks, with the occasional touch of crimson red – as well as cream, mocha brown, and black for after dark. These convey a subtle feeling of italianità: the faded hues of Roman landscapes and villas under the scorching sun.

Clothing is louche and care-free, yet still superbly tailored to the form of the body. The Soffio jacket captures the spirit of the collection, while shorts are paired with matching shirts for summer lightness.

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