Escape Edit: La Serena, Forte di Marmi

Forte dei Marmi might not yet have crossed your orbit. Long favoured by stylish Italians who know a good thing when they find one, it has quietly remained in the shadow of its more famous neighbours along the Amalfi and Ligurian coasts. Yet further along Tuscany's shoreline lies a destination that has kept its allure under wraps for far too long, attracting generations of impeccably dressed holidaymakers drawn to its understated elegance and timeless charm. Now, the Italian seaside town is opening its shores to a wider audience, welcoming those in search of a more refined kind of coastal escape, where sophistication comes naturally rather than by design.

I, too, had overlooked this corner of Tuscany, imagining the region as little more than rolling hills and perfectly manicured vineyards. So, when Forte dei Marmi first came onto my radar, followed by an enthusiastic conversation with an Italian friend who assured me that only the chicest of locals holiday there, it's safe to say my curiosity was piqued.

After a short flight to Pisa, we arrived in the historic city, our home for the night and the perfect opportunity to capture the obligatory photograph of ourselves single-handedly propping up the Leaning Tower. A quick search led us to Il Risotto della Pe', an unassuming neighbourhood restaurant where chef Luca single-handedly runs the kitchen, turning out excellent plates of carbonara, perfectly cooked beef fillet and, if the season allows, an artichoke carpaccio generously finished with Parmigiano Reggiano. The picturesque surroundings, exceptional food and more than a few €5 glasses of Chianti are a recipe for success, leaving you feeling like an honorary local, even if only for the weekend.

As the sun rises over the charming city of Pisa, your escape truly begins. Your destination is La Serena, an intimate retreat set between the Tyrrhenian coast and the marble peaks of the Apuan Alps. Collected by one of the hotel's attentive drivers, it's a leisurely journey south via Viareggio before the beach club-lined Tuscan Riviera comes into view. Tucked just behind the shoreline, the newly renovated five-star La Serena welcomes guests as though returning them to a second home, whether for a weekend or an extended stay.

Passing beneath a canopy of poplar trees and rows of bright turquoise bicycles, you step into a lobby that could have been lifted from the pages of Architectural Digest. Sculptures punctuate the space, while shelves lined with Assouline books would delight any design enthusiast. The scent of fresh lilies lingers in the air as sunlight pours through the windows, creating an immediate sense of calm and familiarity, even for first-time visitors.

It is exactly the atmosphere general manager Stefano has worked to preserve. There is no sense of formality or superiority, only genuine hospitality. The hotel strikes that elusive balance of feeling neither too large nor too small, but just right. A series of inviting salons offer quiet corners for reading, conversation or simply switching off, while a thoughtfully curated library sits tucked away nearby. Outside, lush gardens surround the pool, where lemon trees cast dappled shade over loungers that practically invite an afternoon spent with a gin and tonic in one hand and something delicious to snack on in the other.

Upstairs, the rooms continue this understated elegance. Cream-coloured walls, soft natural textures and carefully chosen abstract artwork create a calming retreat that encourages complete relaxation. Yet it is the private balcony that steals the show. Nestled among the trees, with glimpses of the sea beyond, it feels wonderfully secluded, offering that rare sense of privacy and stillness we are all in search of.

Once you've had your fill of La Serena's peaceful seclusion, the glamour of Forte dei Marmi awaits. Borrow one of the hotel's bicycles and embrace the rhythm of provincial Italian life, pedalling along the pedestrian-friendly streets and beach club-lined coastline before arriving at the town's elegant shopping district. Forte dei Marmi rivals some of the world's most exclusive retail destinations, with boutiques from nearly every major luxury fashion house lining its streets. Yet what sets it apart is the effortless way designer storefronts sit alongside family-run cafés, gelaterias and seafood restaurants. Every turn presents another opportunity to pause for a seafood risotto, an artisanal gelato or, naturally, an Aperol Spritz. It's the perfect compromise for keeping even the most reluctant shopping companion content.

The appeal of the region extends well beyond its stylish centre. Just a stone's throw away lies Pietrasanta, the historic artists' town renowned for its marble studios, working foundries and lively piazzas. For those seeking something more adventurous, a 4x4 tour of the Carrara marble quarries offers a dramatic contrast. The vast white mountains have provided stone for over two millennia and have supplied some of the world's greatest architectural and artistic masterpieces. Their striking landscape has also provided the backdrop for films including Quantum of Solace and The Brutalist. Alternatively, simply claim a sunbed at one of Forte dei Marmi's iconic beach clubs, where the day's greatest dilemma is deciding when to turn over and catch the sun on the other side. It is a destination that encourages you to slow down, indulge a little and appreciate both the elegance of the town and the remarkable beauty of its surroundings.

La Serena embodies everything that Forte dei Marmi represents: exclusive and design-led, yet timeless and full of heart. Through its artist residency programme, held each spring and summer, the hotel has created a platform for emerging and established creatives, introducing their work to guests in a way that feels both natural and engaging. The result is a hotel where art is woven into the experience rather than displayed for effect. With its limited number of rooms and quietly confident approach, La Serena isn't trying to appeal to everyone. Instead, it attracts travellers who appreciate thoughtful design, genuine hospitality and a destination that feels wonderfully under the radar. There is an effortless warmth to every interaction, whether you're greeted by name at breakfast, driven into town for dinner or simply chatting with Stefano about your plans for the day. There is no sense of hierarchy between guests and staff, only a genuine commitment to the kind of old-fashioned Italian hospitality that makes you feel less like a visitor and more like a returning friend.

That same philosophy extends to the hotel's approach to breakfast. Rather than insisting guests rise early for a traditional breakfast service, La Serena serves brunch until midday, removing the morning rush we're all guilty of. Sip your morning espresso from a colourful Art Deco-inspired cup, accompanied by fresh melon and Prosciutto di San Daniele, my breakfast combination of choice, before ordering a cooked dish and pouring one last glass of juice ahead of the day. Whether your itinerary is packed with plans or blissfully empty, breakfast is designed to be enjoyed at an unhurried pace. Beneath the lemon trees lies the promise of a day well spent, or perhaps no plans at all beyond claiming a sunbed by the pool, where attentive staff ensure that whatever you need arrives without you ever having to leave your lounger.

For those whose holidays are measured by memorable meals, an evening at Lumarea is essential. Here, the ever-attentive Riccardo greets guests with little encouragement needed to pour a classic aperitivo or, if you're lucky, one of his own creations before Chef Giuseppe begins his carefully orchestrated symphony of flavours. Led by seasonality, the restaurant's tasting menus celebrate the freshness of local produce alongside exceptional handmade bread and pasta. Drawing on years of experience in Michelin-starred kitchens, Giuseppe builds each dish around three or four carefully considered elements, whether vegetables, grains, seafood or herbs. Rooted in the traditions of Southern Italy, his cooking is simple, emotionally rich and unmistakably Mediterranean, elevated by modern technique and precision.

With an ever-changing menu, dinner might begin with a trio of assaggi, each highlighting a single standout ingredient, while a selection of house-made breads presents an immediate temptation to fill up before the meal has truly begun. Delicate courses might include beautifully charred celeriac, each peeled layer revealing new depth of flavour, or perfectly cooked lobster served alongside a rich bisque. Whatever arrives at the table, every plate evokes the comfort, generosity and sense of occasion that define Italian dining at its best. No meal here is complete without the perfect wine pairing. With a cellar of more than two thousand bottles, Riccardo expertly matches each course with a thoughtful selection, whether that's a crisp Franciacorta, a full-bodied Brunello or a beautifully balanced dessert wine to finish. Combined with his effortless hospitality and generous pours, it's a pairing that all but guarantees a sound night's sleep.

La Serena, and in turn Forte dei Marmi, welcomed me in a way that words can only ever attempt to capture. Here, schedules fade away, watches become irrelevant and the need to rush gives way to something altogether more serene and fulfilling. Once you've experienced it, it's hard to believe you hadn't discovered it sooner. An escape? It feels far more like coming home.

La Serena

Rooms at La Serena start from 500 EUR based on two adults sharing a double room on a B&B basis. The property is open to guests from April 30 to September 29.

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