Restaurants – The Gilbert Scott
If you’re after La Belle Epoque in London this autumn, you need look no further than The Gilbert Scott. Housed in the lavish surroundings of the St. Pancras Renaissance Hotel, walking into The Gilbert Scott will make you feel like you’re in a 1940s film. Think lots of gilt, sumptuous wallpapers and a man in a suit tinkling on a piano in the corner. It’s the apotheosis of fin-de-siecle decadence, and yet somehow, here, it doesn’t seem remotely OTT but just totally fitting.
As we sashayed over to our table (the atmosphere will do that to a guy), we took in the room – glamorous couples, furs and diamonds, champagne and high ceilings – all utterly luxurious. A pre-dinner Kir Royale was served in beautiful 1920s-style cut-glass, while the bread was spongy and the butter salty. Heavenly. We started with crab, served with pickled cucumber, radish and nectarine – delicate, fresh and delightful. Our lady friend had the oysters, which she said came with the best accompaniment she’d ever tried – a lemon marmalade.
The onto mains: a steak with the most earthy, rich sauce made of brandy and mushrooms and cooked to perfection, while our lady friend had seabass which was as delicious as you’d expect a seabass to be when a) freshly caught and b) served with capers, almonds and sea purslane. We shared some sprightly spring greens and a mustardy cauliflower cheese.
Fitting pudding in was, admittedly, a stretch. Yet somehow we managed to work our way through a praline tart, gooey with salted caramel, and a fresh gin-sceneted elderflower posset.
All of this was accompanied by an excellent selection of wines chosen by the charming sommelier, so that by the time we wended our way out into the night, it was easier to believe that we were in The Great Gatsby than just heading to the tube station. The Gilbert Scott would be a wonderful place for a date – it’s romantic without being overbearing, glamorous without being showy and and the food is deceptively simple and yet dense with flavour and verve. A wonderful restaurant.
Five stars.
For more information, or to book, visit thegilbertscott.co.uk
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