Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green
Don’t get me wrong, as a hard working North West Londoner, I love a boozy midweek meal in central as much as anyone else. Drinking and eating away your early evening is the best remedy to hump day. Sadly, unless you have a W1 postcode, you will inevitably face the nauseating tube ride home where your date falls asleep and you realise an Uber is always a better option. When you live north of Notting Hill, finding an option closer to home isn’t easy. Luckily there is one solution; Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green.
Taking its name from GK Chesterton’s famous poem ‘The Rolling English Road’, Paradise has been combining partying for the PR class and better-than-gastropub cuisine for many years. However a recent revamp has seen them further establish themselves as an essential destination for those out of the centre.
CUISINE
Cat Ashton, formerly of Petersham Nurseries, has just been appointed as the new head chef. She brings fresh and interesting seasonal produce to the table whilst keeping the main ingredient of each dish the same. What came with your steak last week won’t be the same the next – it’s this constant variation that makes Paradise your local of choice.
THE VIBE
The décor is an eccentric spin on the shabby grandeur the North West pioneered. Gothic trinkets line every nook and cranny; think vintage oil portraits, neon signs, huge velvet drapes and life size religious statues. It’s a wonky palace of opulence and it’s no wonder that it has become a regular haunt for the edgy West London elite with its cult following meaning things can get hectic on Friday and Saturday nights. The staff may look like they just strolled out of a #streetstyle Instagram feed, but they are well versed in the cuisine they’re serving. There is also a wonderful bustling courtyard and a château-like roof terrace; both perfect for lazy summer boozing.
THE FOOD
The tempura courgette flowers were sweet and light, served in a perfectly thin crispy batter with parmesan, honey and almonds. The main course rib eye was juicy and tender, topped with a generous serving of chorizo butter – a pleasing change from béarnaise and peppercorn. Sides include “so hot right now” polenta chips and kale. Their Sunday Roast is also rumoured to be a legend in the area, accompanied by all the trimmings and create-your-own Bloody Marys – it’s the perfect excuse to work up a hangover.
THE DRINKS
We were impressed by the international wine list, with bottles served in wide-based carafes and well paired by the waiting staff. For when the lights go down there is a brand new cocktail list but our tip is to ask the mixologist for some off-menu suggestions.
THE DAMAGE
Easy on the eye – the menu is a steal and the perfect location to convince your friends to go for dinner towards the end of the month!
CONCLUSION
When London destinations attempt to be all things to all men, they often fall flat. Paradise is not akin to that rule. It exceeds expectations to be a charming pub, a quality restaurant and a rowdy party spot. It’s a dream local for North West residents and a paradise worth the pilgrimage for everyone else – it just might land the less restrained gent in purgatory.
BEST FOR
Everything, from relaxed first dates to big blowout all-nighters.
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