Your new post-work hangout
Tiger’s milk. Now gents, it’s not the pungent cologne Fanatana dons in Anchorman, nor is it the mystic brew that will finally turn you into a man-beast hybrid. It’s the citrus-based marinade that cures raw seafood in traditional Peruvian ceviche.This marinade is also the star of the show at the latest opening from former head of iTunes Europe, ex-director of Disney Music, DJ, record label founder, bestselling writer, restaurant owner and all round polymath; Martin Morales. Not satisfied with opening two eateries and singlehandedly launching Peruvian food in London, Martin arrives at the silicon roundabout with Ceviche 2.0.
THE CUISINE
Ceviche, aka sushi’s messier, livelier cousin, amongst other colourful Peruvian delights. Expect incredibly fresh Cornwall-sourced fish alongside barbecued meats and refreshingly unfamiliar ingredients that will have you Googling under the table. With some plates including cuts of brain, heart and liver, it is clear Martin isn’t shying away from keeping things adventurous.
THE VIBE
The restaurant is set in the historic Alexandra Trust Dining Rooms, built in 1898 to historically feed those in poverty in this part of the city. Maintaining the original classic redwood and glazed brick interiors of its Victorian heritage, whilst also sporting an open grill and ceviche bar, you can get a close up of the action. The huge space gives room to breathe and has less of the squashed canteen feel than its Soho brother. The service was passionate, with multiple waiters coming to give their personal take on both food and drink offerings (Marta, in particular, was a sweetheart!).
THE FOOD
Ceviche of the day was lemon sole packing a fiery, juicy punch from the tiger’s milk and a unique, satisfying bite from the citrified fish. For those needing to cool down from all the puckering and heat-sweats, there is a great selection of comforting options like the Majado Slow-cooked pork cheeks adobo with Catacaos cassava hash; a warm, creamy meat-hug of a dish.
For the more daring there is the Torreja de Sesos; Lamb’s brain fritters with tomato and rocoto chilli jam. Your bravery will be rewarded with a creamy texture that works perfectly with the spicy sweet jam. The menu also debuts their Peruvian rotisserie style chicken. Shake off any initial Nandos flashbacks because this is a much more flavoursome and succulent piece of bird, marinated in Ceviche’s own-recipe concoction.
THE DRINKS
The only place to start is the Pisco cocktail menu, which we sampled extensively… hard job I know. Their Pisco Sour has donned more London must try cocktail lists than we’ve had hot dinners. But the highlight for us was the Duncan’s Pisco Punch; a house bottled blend of Pisco Italia, pineapple syrup, sweet vermouth and bitters. For something with a little more kick, try the Nipponjin – a roundhouse combo of East meets West featuring Pisco impostor whisky, Tenzen Yuzushu, ginger infused pisco and lemongrass cordial.
THE DAMAGE
It’s a sharing plate situation with dishes ranging from £3.50 to £7.50. The waiters recommend 3-4 plates per person, but with the good speed of service and flavours on offer you could easily hoover up a lot more.
THE CONCLUSION, The simplicity behind the execution of such bold and unique dishes is what makes Ceviche an essential London dining experience. With this second opening, we see the culmination of Martin’s previous successes and the epitome of when London meets Lima. And not a guinea pig in sight.
BEST FOR…, Post-work cocktails and a few nibbles that turn into ten sharing plates, dancing on the table and a hangover for your 9am.
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