Holborn Dining Room: the ultimate gent’s refuge
With the glut of grand British Brasserie style restaurants throughout the capital, it is sad that so many miss the mark. With stuffy and expensive at one end to sad and tired at the other, few ever find the sweet spot of relaxed charm. Luckily Rosewood London is at hand to deliver… Located at the heart of the Grade II-listed London hotel sits Holborn Dining Room.
THE CUISINE
The new menu features a range of seasonal Brit classics, all brought together by head chef Calum Franklin, formerly of The Ivy and Indigo at One Aldwych.
THE VIBE
Dim candlelight reflects off grand furnishings and some rather precariously balanced metal sculptures. Meanwhile, guests recline into reassuringly squeaky red leather banquettes behind old oak tables. It is a warm, classic brasserie feel mixed with modern stylings that will impress both the mother-in-law and the edgy friend from out of town. As the lighting gets even darker, and the guests sit closer, chatter fills the air.
THE FOOD
The menu is strong with seafood and, although the griddled shrimps and lobster tart are good enough, we insist on the octopus with chorizo and aioli to start; it is the perfect marriage of three great ingredients. The simple execution appears once again in the sirloin steak main, a hunk of perfectly cooked and matured meat. In keeping with the seasonal British fare, the gamey main of partridge was a generous dish of comforting gravy-drenched poultry. For dessert, the hazelnut coffee coupe has unrelenting sweetness that will leave any one with a sweet tooth blissfully chocolate-drunk.
N.B. The menu also features the Monkshill Farm Scotch Egg, current holder of the title belt (I hope there is a belt) for ‘Best Scotch Egg 2015’.
THE DRINKS
The cocktail menu is full of modern, refreshing combinations; lots of elderflower, gin and Kamm & Sons. The wine menu is short and simple but their French house red, sourced and labelled exclusively for Holborn Dining Room, sits perfectly with the rich seasonal food on offer.
THE DAMAGE
Starters rarely break £20 and a creature from the grill will cost you north of £20. Holborn will leave you with pennies to spare when brunching with friends but also offer the flashier options for you to push the boat out for your anniversary dinner.
CONCLUSION
Opulent and welcoming, Rosewood London’s interior has enough art-deco swagger to get anyone in a fluster and the British comfort-cuisine at Holborn Dining Rooms will have most cold-hearted Londoners sighing in contentment. Add to this an outstanding cigar terrace and a floor-to-ceiling whisky cabinet at nearby Scarfes Bar and you have yourself the ultimate gent’s refuge in the middle of London’s midtown law-land.
BEST FOR
Dinner with friends or in-laws.
For more information, visit Holborn Dining Rooms.
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