In the world of watches, we often reference ‘complications’. Can a watch give us the date? Or adjust for leap years? Can it chime the hours or record intervals? Independently, these are complications, and each is a triumph of engineering and design. The one complication not often given the credit it deserves is thinness, which, in itself, is highly challenging to achieve – because the thinner you go, the less stable the movement within becomes. Just think of the number of moving parts in a movement and how these layers stack up on each other (and that is before we discuss the dial, case and crystal).
The race for extreme thinness, however, has been a ferocious one for many years, with players such as Piaget and Bulgari in the mix. So, when Richard Mille launched the quite frankly bonkers RM UP-01 Ferrari, becoming the world’s thinnest watch, in 2022, and measuring a mere 1.75mm thick, the watch world took notice. Previously, Bulgari held the micro-watchmaking record, with its 1.80mm-thick Octo Finissimo Ultra, introduced in 2021, and Piaget – for a prototype Altiplano – before.
Technically speaking, to achieve such a feat, Richard Mille opted to distribute the components across a 'large' surface area rather than stacking them, as generally is the case. The baseplate and bridges are made out of grade 5 titanium, a particularly rigid alloy. Moreover, the function selector, winding crown, time subdial and balance wheel/hairspring are all displayed on the same plane, with space left over for Ferrari’s prancing-pony logo. If you can believe it, the sapphire crystal has been reduced to just tenths of a millimetre.
The case, like most other Richard Mille watches, is tonneau, but it’s an east-west tonneau (51mm/39mm). Ultimately, the collab element of the watch works because both parties are in the business of pushing the envelope of performance and design; not all link ups have such an authentic feel. The final element is the price. No biggie: just a cool $1,888,000. The model is limited to 150 watches, so you will sleep well in the knowledge that you won’t be seeing one at the next Red Bar meet up.
Want more horology content? This is the latest from the world of top-spec watches…
Become a Gentleman’s Journal Member?
Like the Gentleman’s Journal? Why not join the Clubhouse, a special kind of private club where members receive offers and experiences from hand-picked, premium brands. You will also receive invites to exclusive events, the quarterly print magazine delivered directly to your door and your own membership card.
