In NOMOS Glashütte’s Metro collection, every dot counts
Minimalist, mechanical and masterfully made, we pick out a trio of Metro collection standouts from the German watchmaker…
“On the dot.” It means “exactly on time”. And few watchmakers take the saying as literally as NOMOS Glashütte, the Bauhaus-inflected brand whose dials are punctuated with more punchy points than almost any other — all in the name of punctuality. And the dottiest dials of all? They’re to be found in the watchmaker’s Metro collection.
A best-selling range since its launch in 2014, there are now a dozen different Metro models, the visual identity of which was designed by Berlin-based Mark Braun. The aesthetic recalls an intricate measuring instrument: minimal, but characterised by striking wire lugs, a diamond-knurled crown and, of course, a constellation of those distinctive dot indices, a no-nonsense numeral alternative.
These are the unifying design features of the collection — touches that also include a domed sapphire crystal and hands that subtly echo Manhattan’s Empire State Building. But it’s those dots that truly define every Metro. From the same watchmaker that also produces the ultra-angular Tetra collection, everything here is substantially softer, with curves abounding from the slim case to the subdials; the minute markers to the power reserve.
Which is another intricate part of this all-rounder collection. Beneath those carefully calibrated, spot-stippled dials, NOMOS Glashütte equips the Metro with a range of in-house movements — from the brand’s slender hand-wound calibres to its ultra-thin automatic Neomatik mechanism. Many are regulated by the NOMOS swing system, the manufacture’s proprietary escapement, developed in Glashütte and a marker of true horological independence.
These are our three favourite pieces from the Metro family — each one a masterclass in precision, right down to the very last dot…
The Metro Date Power Reserve is the family’s favourite child
Smart, slender, mechanical: The Metro Date Power Reserve is a handsome 37mm model that — despite its relatively compact size — confidently commands the space on your wrist. It’s the collection’s signature piece, a standout statement-maker, with colourful accents everywhere from its dot indices to that cool mint power indicator.
Flip it over, and the colours continue. Visible through the sapphire crystal case back, there’s a tempered blue balance spring for the spying, alongside 23 ruby jewels and the bold blued screws of the in-house Calibre DUW 4401. Turn it back over, and you’ll see an extra-large date — a patented NOMOS special.
Even the simple black leather strap is a talking point. Cut from Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan — one of the finest leathers in the world — it verges on the indestructible, tanned thick by five generations of master craftsmen in Chicago, and completing the circle of craftsmanship from the in-house movement to the final dot on the dial.
The Metro Neomatik 41 Update is the family’s big brother
With a slightly larger dial, the Neomatik 41 Update had more room to play — and play the NOMOS designers did. Continuing the circular theme, the highlight of this contemporary, cosmopolitan model is its eye-catching ring date, encircling the dial in a design inspired by a series of train carriages.
Two neon-orange markers flank the current date, leaving the rest of the dial to relax in cool monochrome. Even the durable textile strap is an exercise in understatement, belying none of the Neomatik’s rugged, ready-for-anything credentials — all stainless-steel sturdiness and splash-proof construction.
Beneath the dial, and those galvanised, white silver-plated indexes, lies Calibre DUW 6101 — an automatic movement, and the first Neomatik calibre to feature a date mechanism. It’s among the largest of the Neomatik movements, yet the subtle size increase is perfectly balanced, keeping everything ticking smoothly without ever feeling crowded.
The Metro Rose Gold Neomatik 39 is the family’s well-heeled uncle
Our third pick of the Metro family is a rose-gold relative — and another Neomatik. Equipped with the ultra-slim automatic NOMOS calibre DUW 3001, this is a slick, slender model measuring just eight millimetres in height. Paired with its ever-delicate wire lugs, it’s a Metro of a more finessed character.
Take a closer look at the dial. It’s still the same cool monochrome face, but here gold-plated hands sweep across it. Even the seconds subdial is subtler, merely hinted at and flush with the face. And for a final understated touch, the caseback arcs ever so slightly, keeping this Metro low and close to the wrist.
But it’s not all understatement. The rich brown strap sets off the case’s deep tones, complementing the blush of the 18-carat rose gold. And, as with every Metro, it all comes full circle back to those punchy, purposeful dots — pinpointed around the dial with the clockwork precision we’ve come to expect from NOMOS Glashütte.
Want to learn more about NOMOS Glashütte? Visit the watchmaker’s website here…
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