The Gods of Indian cuisine in central London

It’s a story that seems almost prerequisite for any London restaurant success: merchant/investment banker and friends quit lucrative jobs to open restaurant… Become local hit… Dominate the capital. It’s this story that sits true for Ranjit Mathrani, (his wife) Namita Panjabi and Camellia Panjabi as owners of Chutney Mary – parent company MW Eat restaurants is the remarkable empire behind Michelin-starred Amaya, Veeraswamy aka London’s oldest Indian and Chelsea’s local of choice, Chutney Mary. After 25 years in business and a handful of awards to its name, Chutney Mary has now relocated to the grand location of St .James.

THE CUISINE

London is not weak on its high end modern Indian, with one of the champions just a stone’s throw away from Chutney Mary. However what sets its kitchen apart is its focus on all seven of India’s regional cuisines, far from the coloured meat and cream from your local delivery service. Excitingly it’s the Pukka Bar at the forefront of this new move, set on shaking up spirits with a selection of Indian spices and botanicals.

THE VIBE

The new location in St James is suitably grand, with gents’ favourites Locke & Co and Berry Bros & Rudd within eyeshot. The Pukka Bar provides a more relaxed setting than the opulent dining room in the back and its contemporary design cut though any image of tired Mayfair grandiose. The new location is vast and buzzing by 8pm. Sitting on an incredible 18ft communal table made of a single piece of SE Asian timber, we share an interesting evening with a couple in nuclear energy to the left, to the right a moody banker and his even moodier client.

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THE FOOD

For what can often be a very predictable cuisine at more mediocre establishments, Chutney Mary excels in defying your expectations. The baked venison samosa comes as generously stuffed yet still delicate, crisp cones and the curries don’t shy from the heat the dishes deserve. Any “I’ll just have a korma” types, you have been warned. Your face will glisten and your eyes may stream in sweltering bliss. Salted caramel kulfi for dessert soothes the fire, a traditional Indian ice cream that comes with sweet honeycomb for added crunch.

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THE DRINKS

No disrespect to the food but the new bar manager is a maverick of liquor and stole the show on our visit. He started us off with spherified pearls of black pepper gin, kaffir lime and cardamom served in scallop shells with things only getting crazier from there. Allowing us to dabble in his current experiments, we gave up ordering and told him to bring us whatever he wanted, a wise choice. Leave the pints of Cobra for another day.

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THE DAMAGE

Curry mains come in around £20, starters around £15. It’s the rate you expect to pay when eating in Mayfair surrounded by this clientele, but the food is undoubtedly deserving of its price tag.

This relocation has shown that it can easily challenge the gods of Indian cuisine in central London. With an extensive VIP list including the Prime Minister already on the books, the results speak for themselves. Chutney Mary is already at home in its new location.

BEST FOR

Swanky date nights or dinner with your politician friends.

For more information, visit here.

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