Review: The New Angel Notting Hill
It seems that every article about this newly-opened restaurant spends more time talking about the owner’s past than the place itself, resulting in any opinion on the place reading like a Hello magazine column on John Burton-Race. We have decided to let the restaurant and the food it serves do the talking for this piece – food that was awarded three AA Rosettes within 10 months of opening.
CUISINE, A French focused menu of contemporary European food. Expect gout-inducing decadence of the highest order.
THE VIBE, Set in a converted Victorian Pub in Chepstow Place the decor is by no means radical or edgy, setting itself firmly in more traditional hues of rich brown, gold and cream. The service is also very traditional. The approaching champagne train can be an awkward experience for anyone looking to keep the bill light, but you can’t fault the place for sticking to the book. It’s a clinically perfect example of how service should be done, including the incredibly attentive maître d’ and sommelier.
THE FOOD, To start, we recommend the sashimi tuna, served with Clare oyster, tangy green apple jelly, yuzu granita and Oscietra caviar. This trifecta of fresh, fishy grandeur was brought to life by the icy sourness of the yuzu. Meanwhile our mains were well-executed displays of heady richness. Squab pigeon with foie gras, black truffle and opposite me a loin of Scottish venison served with cocoa port sauce and a peppercorn jus. Even the cheese is served with honey, mixed in front of you and your guest with freshly grated truffle and garlic oil.
THE DRINKS, The wine pairings offered by the sommelier were extremely well suited throughout, mirroring the flavour notes of every dish. It’s a francocentric selection that works perfectly alongside the gamey meats and accompanying complex jus on offer.
THE DAMAGE, Prices start from two courses for £46. Start adding wine pairings and cheese courses and things can get out of hand. Engage baller mode and go for the taster menu if you dare.
CONCLUSION, By providing a culinary clout worthy of awards so early on in its existence, The New Angel has proven it doesn’t need the gossip cycle to make a name for itself. Yes the food isn’t breaking any new ground. Yes it’s unashamedly bourgeois. But in a city obsessed with exposed filament lights, “dirty food” and sharing platters, it’s good to know some places are sticking to the old school elegance and nailing it. This is a lesson in class that will see more and more of the spotlight in future, for all the right reasons.
Photograph: John Burton-Race
BEST FOR, Flashy romantic dates, special occasions, or schmoozing clients on the no limit expenses card.
For more, see The New Angel Notting Hill.
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