Meat and Shake restaurant review

Trendy burger joints are a dime a dozen in London now and although each has its own subtle distinctions, it was with a degree of trepidation that I entered Meat and Shake in Tooting, South London. The setting invokes a southern states steakhouse and has individual booths as well as traditional tables. The restaurant is surprisingly small but this is perhaps to its advantage as you can enjoy the American inspired nosh, without the noise and camaraderie of a larger burger joint.

TGJ – 32-1a

After being shown to our table we began to peruse the menu and realised that the name of the restaurant was perhaps as honest as they come: meat (mainly in burger form) and milkshakes were pretty much the only things on offer. Despite the protestations of my female accompaniment I ordered the most delicious, and unhealthiest sounding, milkshake on the menu; salted caramel and it was fabulous in a heart stopping kind of way.

After such an unhealthy drink, you may have suspected that I was ready to bear in mind my strained left ventricle when I ordered food – but I was a glutton for punishment (or maybe just a glutton). I ordered a ‘Rib ’n’ Cheese’, while my plus one ordered a ‘Smoking Bandit’ – both came on brioche buns. Sides of chips and suchlike were not included and so we ordered them separately; my plus one had ‘Rosemary Fries’, while I had the aptly named ‘Dirty Fries’.

It was when I gave the rib monster a break and started wolfing down the dirty fries – which I could barely see for all the cheese, chilli con carne, sour cream and mustard – that I realised what I liked about Meat and Shake – its authenticity. So much of London’s pan-American cuisine has been altered for the health fascists that it barely resembles the food it draws inspiration from – not so with Meat and Shake. The food is unashamedly American and delightfully unhealthy – it’s also very tasty.

TGJ – 32-3a

The rib ’n’ cheese was succulent, the dirty fries were oh so dirty and my partner in cardiovascular crime seemed to enjoy her smoking bandit and rosemary fries. This is honest, authentically American fair and provides a welcome respite from Tooting’s delightful but repetitive curry scene. For South Londoners looking for something a bit different Meat and Shake is perfect – just try to ignore that shooting pain in your arm.

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