Our top picks from this year’s SIHH

Our round-up of the most impressive from last week's SIHH

Working in the watch industry of late has been tough for many. With a never ending stream of negativity, talk of plummeting exports and brands struggling, many thought SIHH (the little cousin of Basel World and acid test of industry health) could go one of two ways. Either the brands would play it safe and withdraw in the face of adversity or come out fighting. And thankfully, the feeling on the ground was very much that they came out swinging. For five days at the Palexpo next to Geneva airport, press and the public (for the first time ever) flocked in their thousands to see the new novelties from the 16 manufactures. Here are my top 5 watches of the show:

I relish any opportunity to speak to RESSENCE Founder Mr Benoît Mintiens. Not only is he a wonderful man, fabulous designer (industrial designer by trade) – he is also on a mission to make telling the time intuitive. I love this. There are so few people in any industry, truly and honestly driven to change a process that has quite literally stood the test of time: the way we read a watch. And as a result, RESSENCE never disappoint in my eyes. This year they launched the Type 1², their elegant take on a dress watch. It still maintains their DNA, with hands that don’t cross and rotating subdials, but now, instead of having to apply pressure to the back of the case to set the time, users now rotate the caseback with a new pull out lever. Other adjustments are a slight reduction in size, from 44mm to 41mm, a move away from Grade-5 Titanium to stainless steel and the in-house ROCS 1 movement has also been adjusted to allow quick day setting. All in – a wonderful example of independent watchmaking. Learn more.

This year marks the 25th anniversary of the Master Control collection from Jaeger-LeCoultre. To celebrate, they released three special edition watches at SIHH last week. The three pieces were a Master Control Date, Chronograph, and Geographic. For me, the star of the show was the Master Control Chronograph. I mean come on now – that’s a beautiful watch right! The two-tone sector dial and light blue accents are a master stroke. We all know vintage is hot right now – and JLC knocked it out of the park with this guy! With a steel case of just over 40mm (12.1mm thick) it is right on the boarder of the perfect dress watch size (37mm-40mm). A cracking dress watch from a deeply respected manufacturer. Learn more.

Those who know – know. Laurent Ferrier is a connoisseur’s watch brand (of that there is no doubt). And this year they have taken a look back for inspiration. In this case, the watch Mr Ferrier himself made while nurturing his craft in 1968 – his “school watch” or “Montre Ecole”. It’s hugely understated as all their watches are, and the two tone dial is glorious! You simply can’t go wrong. The Galet Micro Rotor “Montre Ecole” comes in a 40 mm case, in red gold, white gold or steel. Save up and buy one. Learn more.

The MB&F HM7 Aquapod is mad on every single level. Ever since the Horological Machine launched in 2007, MB&F have been creating futuristic ‘products’ in various forms. This is their take on a ‘dive watch’ but not as you know it. The watch clearly has a bezel, but as I was told at the show, it is not suitable for deep diving as we know it, but could be used for water based activity. The HM7 is a behemoth – like massive. The case is 53.8mm across, and because of its new movement, its 21.3mm high. An I’m ok with that simply because it is a piece of art to be enjoyed around the pool – possibly in Mauritius – but maybe not the board room. Learn more.

I make no attempt to restrain my passion for A. Lange & Söhne. When people talk about ‘doing things the right way because the right way is the only way’ – I always think of Lange. Very small production numbers, high levels of finishing and restrained design all play into why they all too often feature within watch geek ‘grail watch’ lists. And this year was no exception. They presented a delightful Annual Calendar available in white gold and pink gold, with another spot on case size of 40mm case (10.1mm thick), to house the 36mm diameter L051.3 movement (with iconic Lange three quarter plate visible through the case back). Learn more.

The launch was marred by the sad loss of the manufactures founder Walter Lange (92) during the event. This was a man who spent his entire life dedicated to watches. Who helped build A. Lange & Söhne after Germany was reunited again in 1990. Until the very end Mr Walter Lange was deeply involved in the company which is a real credit to the man and his passion for the organization.

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