A Gentleman’s guide to the Channel Islands

Sometimes referred to as ‘tax havens’, there’s much more to Britain’s crown dependencies than finance. Great beaches, a mixture of Anglo-Norman culture, and some of the best seafood in the world make Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney and Sark perfect places to visit for a short break.

JERSEY

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At 9 miles by 5, Jersey is the largest and most southerly of the Channel Islands. Town is St Helier: Victorian streets juxtaposed against glass-fronted offices housing the finance firms UK politicians love to hate. Countryside is potato fields and apple orchards, 18th century pink granite farmhouses and narrow lanes with a speed limit of just 15 miles per hour. Names are usually Jèrriais – how French was spoken during Norman times.

Attractions include Durrell Wildlife Park, the War Tunnels and Mont Orgueil Castle, but when the weather is good you’ll probably go to the beach. For thrills take a rib to the Écréhous or the Minkies (Jersey’s off-shore reefs), or rent a kayak or paddle board at St Brelade’s Bay.

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Stay at the luxurious Atlantic Hotel for beautiful sunsets, Longueville Manor for country-house indulgence, or The Royal Yacht for town-centre convenience. Enjoy dinner at Bohemia, cocktails in the gin room at Ce Soir, or a casual Thai supper at Bonne Nuit.

GUERNSEY

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Victor Hugo wrote Les Miserables while in exile here, but today’s visitors are more likely to write uplifting tweets about Guernsey’s great beaches, quirky attractions (The Little Chapel is the closest the Channel Islands get to Vegas) and Tasty Walks (think pub crawls with food).

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St Peter Port is the largest harbour in the Channel Islands, welcoming yachts, cruise-liners, and ferries, making it a great base for exploring other islands. If you’re looking for a watch, the main shopping streets have a good selection of jewellers, and the tax-free status means you may also find bargains on sailing and outdoor gear.

Gentlemen may like The Old Government House Hotel for elegant luxury, the Bella Luce for country chic, or La Frégate for bright rooms with a harbour view.

SARK

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The island became a democracy in 2008, exchanging its old seigneur for investment by the Barclay Brothers, who live on nearby Brecqhou. They renovated four hotels to a high standard, and developed a vineyard and organic farm to supply their restaurants.

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Relations between the Barclays and some of the 500 islanders have been strained; and none of the Sark Island Hotels have opened this year. However, there are still plenty of guest houses and two independent hotels. Stocks Hotel has modern decor, sun-trap terraces and an outdoor pool, while La Sablonnerie, over La Coupée on Little Sark, has 16th century farmhouse charm.

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As there are no cars on Sark; it’s perfect for cycling or walking, while a horse-drawn carriage is a romantic way to see the island. At night, look up and enjoy the stars; light pollution is so low Sark is the world’s first ‘dark sky island’.

ALDERNEY

Coast Media: Visit Guernsey Images: ALDERNEY -Pictures Chris George

Like all the Channel Islands, Alderney was occupied by the Nazis during WW2. Unlike the others, its entire population was evacuated and the island was used for concentration camps. You can find out more about this sad history during your stay, however the island generally doesn’t dwell on it. Instead, holidaymakers enjoy pale sand beaches, glorious cliff walks and peace and quiet.

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St Anne is a gorgeous Georgian hub; its cobbled main street lined with local shops. There are no chain stores, although the island’s first blonde hedgehogs are rumoured to have arrived here in a Harrods bag.

For the best sea views stay at Braye Beach Hotel. Rooms have a ‘New England’ vibe while the terrace restaurant is perfect for a lobster lunch. Fly direct from the UK with Aurigny from Southampton, or via Jersey or Guernsey. Check flight prices with the hotel first as guests get a discount.

By Julia Hunt

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