Café Murano: Italian Sunday lunch for the soul
In the nightmarish heart of Covent Garden’s pre-show limbo is a gleaming refuge. Jostle your way through the ambling drones, bumbling between “chain-Italian here” or “reheated pizza there”, and head to Café Murano. Little sister to the Michelin-starred Murano and the first of its spin off progeny on St James Street, this Covent Garden location was opened in 2015 by Angela Hartnett and offers the relaxed family-style Italian cuisine that made the original venue so in demand, at an arguably more pocket-friendly price.
THE CUISINE
We visit as Angela is launching the new ‘Pranzo Domenica’ Sunday lunch menu. It’s filled with the sort of comfort food usually only found in the safety of a family home where there is a guaranteed sofa for post-gorging naps without judgement. The small, succinct menu eases the risk of dish FOMO and ordering regret. When, not if, you go as a group – try everything.
THE VIBE
Come at lunch and sit in one of the booths on the spacious first floor. With sunlight beaming through the roof onto the grand interiors (by Russell Sage of Savoy Grill, Grain Store and Social Eating House) it’s perfect continental courtyard vibes. On the day we visit the upstairs is filled with the “who’s who” cheat sheet of London food bloggers. However, the laid back ambience prevails and the paced service meant we spent a good 3 hours lounging over lunch in true European style. By the final drink of vermouth we were practically horizontal.
THE FOOD
Any greeting that involves copious amounts of white carbs and cheese is a good one. Here we arrive to huge chunks of moist tomato focaccia and mozzarella arancini. Both could be consumed until death by starch overload. Instead we dive into a light and fresh plate of burattini, mozzarellas creamier cousin. Both the fennel sausage ragu tagliatelle and ricotta tortelli were simple, homely and superbly cooked. For the mains, the veal chop failed to impress but the fish stew is rich and intense. We were sad to miss out on the famed muscovado tart but the apple and almond cake we received was a more than worthy replacement.
THE DRINKS
The Italian only, regional wine list has some wonderful reds and there is also a collection of Italian-only craft beers; far from the hyper-branded craft beers you find in the UK but still pleasing. The highlight is the selection of sweet vermouths, served on the rocks as a perfect end of meal drink. Move over dessert wines, drinking from a crystal tumbler has always felt more masculine…
THE DAMAGE
Antipasti are around £8, primi £9, secondi can range from £17 to £30, desserts at £6. Upgrade your pasta plates to mains and swerve the secondi if you’re looking to keep down costs, but on the whole it’s an affordable affair.
CONCLUSION
Our waiter’s enthusiasm with the parmesan did not pair well with our future under enthusiasm for the treadmill, but when it tastes this good we couldn’t care less. Café Murano provides heart-warming but expertly executed food that is best served slow. Let the droves inhale their set menus to make their Les Mis showing whilst you recline in blissful lethargy for another round of vermouth. Great things should never be rushed.
BEST FOR
A place to take family and mother in laws etc. due to its classy, relaxed feel. A place to impress that won’t burn too much of a hole in your bank.
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